Rigamarole Es Necessario!

Thursday, April 29, 2010
(Click on photos to enlarge)

         With our days here dwindling down, Layne and I look wistfully at our three-month sojourn in Costa Rica, appreciating the verdant beauty, ecological diversity and affability of this tropical land even as we face the continuing challenges of the residency process. The last two days have been filled with meetings with our attorney Monika, (in photo below) obtaining forms, faxing documents to the US, standing in lines, making phone calls. Achieving legal status is an intimidating ordeal but it has been made more manageable because of Monika’s organization, thoroughness, patience and generosity with her time. How many attorneys in the U.S. would stand in line with you for nearly an hour to resolve an issue? And at no additional hourly charge! Well, Monika did that this week as we awaited our turn in the crowded Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social Clinica lobby.

         Caja is the first-rate national medical system here in Costa Rica, a socialized program that covers everyone for everything. The new residency law requires foreigners applying for legal status to join Caja, paying a small monthly fee for coverage, a sliding scale based on income. In our case, Layne and I will both have medical insurance for $87 per month, no limit on pre-existing conditions, no annual maximums, and covering doctor visits, exams, hospitalization, dental and eyes. Of course, as we saw yesterday, lines can be long and we understand waits for appointments may be lengthy as well, which is why some people opt for the excellent private doctors also available. Still, for middle- and low-income people, the Caja is a wonderful national benefit.

         So last week, Layne and I set out to get signed up. First, we went to the medical clinic where we expected to obtain the proper forms. The first office sent us down a different sidewalk to another large waiting room. With limited Spanish, I tried to ask the clerk where to get the application. My communication failed but he snagged a nurse who led us down the hall to still another office. There I tried to convey my needs to a kind senora who also could not understand what we needed. Finally, she called a doctor over who spoke English and I learned that we were in the wrong building! Around the corner was the Seguro Social and it was there we could obtain the application form. Off we went, only to find the building with a “Seguro Social” sign apparently abandoned. Luckily, it was adjacent to a Ropa Americana (American clothing) store where I had just bought a blouse the day before. The friendly Tica shop owner noticed my confusion and pointed to the correct entrance, which was set back off the sidewalk and hard to spot. To my dismay, my Tica friend also told me they had just closed for the day only 15 minutes earlier. Patience, patience, patience, I reminded myself.

         The next day we returned and managed to acquire the right form. Alas, it was all in Spanish! But again Monika came to the rescue, patiently walking us through the application by phone. The following day, we returned to the Seguro Social offices to see Senor Sandoval, the inspector who would approve or deny our application. He looked over our papers - rental contract and electric bill proving we live here, a copy of our marriage certificate, Layne’s Social Security income statement which we had obtained from the U.S. Embassy, passports - then typed up a form with Layne’s Caja membership number on it and sent us on our way. No problema, we thought. But at the bank, as we inquired about opening a bank account, the English-speaking officer there noticed that Senor Sandoval had checked the wrong boxes -- one indicating Layne was a single man and another indicating we lived in a house we owned, instead of a rental! Back we went to see Senor Sandoval, and after only a short wait, we obtained a corrected Caja membership form. Still more patience required.

         Next we returned to the Caja Clinica where I was to apply as Layne’s dependent. But the clerk was behind glass and spoke Spanish too softly for me to hear what he said. Monika, help! And she did at our next meeting at few days later, translating the papers the man had given me and waiting in line with us to complete the process. As you can tell, this rigmarole is not for the faint of heart! Still, everyone we deal with is friendly and helpful, sympathetic and yes, patient. The residency process will continue while we’re in the States this summer as we must obtain mandatory documents and have them authenticated by state officials or the Costa Rican Consulate; we will keep you posted on that.

         But here in Costa Rica a sense of adventure seems to define our days, with some unexpected enchantment greeting us at every turn. Just recently, as we were entering the gate to our chalet, a few field workers walked by and we waved and said our “Buenas” greeting. One of the young men walked over to us and as he neared, we realized he had a large snake coiled around his neck and body. He and I chatted a moment in Spanish and I learned that it was perhaps a boa or a python and that the men planned to build a cage and keep it. We suspect these are Nicaraguan immigrant farm workers that we have seen camped in a dilapidated empty house nearby, their hand-washed clothes hanging on a line outside. We wished them “Buena suerte,” or good luck with their new pet. Sadly, we did not have the camera with us so the stunning exotic snake must remain in our memories only.

         There are many things we love here, from the warm climate and laid-back lifestyle to the lush foliage. It seems everything grows here. On our walks and throughout Costa Rica we find “living fences,” built of cuttings from a particular ubiquitous tree. Ticos simply cut branches from the bigger trees and stick them in the ground where they immediately take root, then they string wire from branch to branch creating a sturdy and growing fence line. Creative and effective!

         In our local Tico neighborhood, many animals roam free - chickens such as this beautiful rooster, dogs, cats, goats, even horses are sometimes let loose to graze along the roadside but more often are tied in a rich grazing spot. We often stop to pet these two as we take our daily hike. It’s all part of Pura Vida, a lifestyle that is pretty easy to adopt. 

Expat Hurdles and Yigüirro Birds

Saturday, April 24, 2010

(Click on photos to enlarge)

         After a brief but heavy rain yesterday afternoon, we enjoyed another spectacular tropical sunset, with pale blue sky breaking through gold-edged clouds, their dark hearts presenting a tantalizing threat of another shower, which never developed. As we sat out on the patio, the relentless voices of the early evening birds punctuated our reverie with staccato chirps and ringing trills, a soprano chorus welcoming the night. There are so many such breathtaking sights and sounds here; we find joy in every moment.

         With almost three months in Costa Rica now, Layne and I are more convinced than ever that we want to make a permanent home here as expats, doing some travel writing and blogging, seeking out rewarding volunteer opportunities, basking in the tropical climate, enjoying those amazing sunsets and a national temperament of warmth and good cheer. Of course, “perpetual tourists,” those who stay on as visitors rather than acquiring legal residency, are not so welcome, and for good reason. Such tourists tend to take more from this friendly and generous country than they give. The new residency law, which went into effect March 1, 2010, aims to make it more difficult for those folk who ignore the immigration rules by staying on past the 90-day tourist visa allotment or, as often happens, leaving the country every 90 days for 72 hours then returning and getting a new 90-day tourist visa. Under the new law, tourists will be able to do this twice (or alternatively, pay $100 to renew each time) but the third time they will have to stay out of Costa Rica for at least 15 days, a policy designed to encourage long-term visitors to seek another form of residency. Violators who are caught will pay dearly in money or even expulsion from the country.

         For those of us who choose to go through the rigorous process to obtain legal residency in one of several categories, the procedure can be challenging, lengthy and yet, with the right attitude, downright amusing. Without a good sense of humor, parts of it can be a royal pain! Once Layne and I made our decision this spring, we started looking for a good attorney to help us. Now, you can do all the paperwork yourself, you can deal directly with the Immigration Department, you can achieve residency on your own - BUT it is truly a daunting prospect and a little research will inform you that horror stories abound: paperwork lost, problems with language or translations, bewildering or contradictory instructions from bureaucrats, unresponsive or even dishonest attorneys -- all resulting in long waits for residency.

         The laws and regulations are definitely confusing. Indeed, written rules for implementation of the new residency law are yet to be approved. In February Costa Rica elected a new president and the task of drafting the new regulations has been deferred to her new administration, which will take over on May 8th. Meanwhile, even veteran immigration attorneys are confused as to how the new law will be enforced. Our attorney, Monika Valerio de Ford, who enjoys a top-notch reputation among the Gringos here in Atenas, is unclear on several points herself, such as whether pensionados (retirees) must show a guaranteed $1000 per month income per couple or $1000 for each person. Huge difference, of course.

         Layne and I are nowhere near the end of the process but our experience to date might be illustrative of the hurdles one must overcome along the way. First of all, after hearing of a few unfortunate situations, we would urge thorough due diligence on your attorney. Ask for references; talk to people who have used him or her; look into their track record (how long did it take them to get residency for others?); and most importantly, insist on a written contract that specifies the total amount of money they charge, what services that covers, what extra costs are NOT included, and when the monies are due. A reputable attorney will not require you to pay all the fees up front so don’t. In fact, in our contract, the final 1/3 of the total is not due until AFTER our residency is completed and we have our cedulas, or residency identification.

         Before we even signed a contract, Monika provided us with a step-by-step outline of the process we were facing: what papers we would have to get from the United States, how they would be authenticated, what kind of timeline was involved, and what steps we could handle here in Costa Rica prior to our departure. Our first task was to have eight small headshots made. When we easily had that done at a local photo studio for less than $5, we felt we were on our way to becoming residents. Little did we know what was ahead!

         We were also told to go online and register with the U.S. State Department as tourists living in a foreign country, then print out the confirmation they would send us and bring that to our next meeting with Monika. Foolishly, we failed to do this step promptly and when we realized our error had to scramble to get copies made at a local libreria (stationery and copy store) since we have no printer. At our next meeting we signed the contract, then Monika drove us into San Jose to have our fingerprints recorded by the police department there.

         The fingerprint procedure began with a lengthy wait outdoors along with two dozen Ticos sitting in a few chairs or on a low concrete wall lining the sidewalk. The wait seemed interminable and when we were finally called inside, the scene was a Third World tableau of peeling light green paint on walls and bored bureaucrats seated at ancient metal desks. But they were working on modern computers and the actual process of answering questions and fingerprinting took only a few minutes.

         Next stop: the U.S. Embassy to obtain documents proving our Social Security income but when we arrived, we learned that that section of the Embassy was open only from 8:00 a.m. until 11:30 a.m. each day. Since it was early afternoon by then, that part of our day’s activities were scrapped. The next day Layne and I went in once again, this time by bus and taxi, and got the necessary documents promptly and with little bureaucratic hassle. Quite a contrast from the fingerprinting experience.

         Lest I bore you with too much on the residency process, I’ll end this post with a very happy recent occurrence. Big numbers of the national bird of Costa Rica, the clay-colored robin named the Yigüirro, live near our casa and are the source of many of the melodious birdcalls we hear. A few days ago as Layne and I were sitting inside with the sliding door open to catch the breeze, there was a sudden movement, then a loud clunk as something hit the floor-to-ceiling window. We looked behind the sofa and there was a Yigüirro, stunned from his wrong turn into our living room! Quickly but gently, I picked him up and set him outside in the shade of a plant, hoping that his open mouth and inert body didn’t indicate a mortal injury. For long minutes, he didn’t move. I even went back out and petted him softly but got no reaction so I left him alone. Soon, I looked out to find him gingerly pecking at the ground, apparently picking up small bugs and shortly after that, I was relieved to find that he had flown away. It seemed worthy of a minor award of some kind, saving the life of a national bird! 

Oxcarts on Parade!

Monday, April 19, 2010
(Note: Click on photos to enlarge)

         This was Climate Fair weekend here in Atenas, the town National Geographic once proclaimed has the “best climate in the world.” That’s quite a reputation to live up to but for the most part, in our limited experience, it has. So with two days of fair activities scheduled, the central park alive with vendors setting up their turquoise-canopied booths and an oxcart parade on the agenda, Layne and I had every intention of spending much of the weekend at the fiesta. But Mother Nature has her own ideas on these things and it is April, after all, the beginning of the rainy season. So when we arose on Saturday ready to catch the 10 o’clock bus into town, we were disappointed and a bit amused to find it was raining with no indication of stopping any time soon. Some perfect climate! Of course, we were not just disappointed for ourselves but also for the many participants scheduled to present events outdoors in the park: an exercise class, a dance performance by some children, other dance workshops, a magician and much more. So Saturday found us ensconced in our mountain chalet, Layne working on his novel and me reading, doing laundry and watching the rain come down.

         In early afternoon, the phone rang - if you can call the timid sound our phone makes a “ring.” More of a tinkle which we can barely hear. The call was from Leigh, a Tica friend we met on the dance floor a few weeks back at Kay’s Gringo Postre's monthly party. It was Leigh’s beautiful daughter and her boyfriend who set the house on fire that night with their skillful and passionate salsa dancing. Since Leigh knew we love to dance, she was calling to invite us to opening night at her new discotheque, El Mirador (The Lookout). As I struggled to understand the directions through her strong accent, I deduced that the location was somewhere just up the road from us. 

         But the rain had cleared by late afternoon so at the appointed hour we called a taxi and headed uphill with no clear idea of where we were going. Remember, there are no addresses here and since it was a new club, the taxi driver did not know the place either. But after a couple of miles of dark deserted highway with Layne and I giving each other a questioning eye, we saw the lights and cars at El Mirador and made our way inside. What a beautiful facility! Situated on the very edge of the mountain (with no doubt a fabulous view in the daytime), the restaurant and bar offers several levels of outdoor terraces and a large dance floor surrounded by countertop bar seating. More remote tables offer a quieter experience. And what tables they are! Clear glass tops affixed to huge - I mean really huge! - gnarled tree trunk bases. With pulsing salsa beats coming from the DJ booth, Layne and I soon joined other dancers with our own style of Latin boogie. It was a great evening.

         On Sunday Atenas dawned bright and sunny, warm and breezy, exactly as the guidebooks promise. After a short bus ride into town, we walked to the park and found it filled with colorful booths and happy Ticos wandering from one display to the next, nibbling on ice cream or sipping cold drinks. In the middle of the park was an exercise group, headed by a muscular guy on the small stage, pedaling away on their stationary bikes with the bright awnings of vendor stands radiating out to all corners from the central plaza. As we wandered along under tall palm trees snapping photos of the crowd, we saw children learning origami or getting their faces painted; we chatted with our own organic vendor, Genevieve, who had baskets of vegetables for sale, and Tom the organic baker, cooking up barbequed pork burritos alongside chocolate chip muffins; we stopped to watch artisans at work designing lovely creations with rock (yes, rock!) or fabric or wood; we inhaled the rich odor of chicharrones cooking in a monster pot and the sweet smells of blended fruit drinks. For much of the day, we simply enjoyed the smiling faces of adults and children alike. At one booth offering beautiful jewelry made from exotic woods, we bought a few gifts for friends and family, pleased with the high quality and low prices. We laughed at the makeshift electrical wiring running overhead through the trees and along the ground, commenting that in the U.S., strict regulations would prohibit such improvisation. Uniformed policia were apparent in the area but they seemed to have little to do besides chat with Ticos and look at the displays.

         When we heard the approaching fire engine wail, we realized the parade of boyeros (drovers) and oxcarts was about to begin so we found a place across from the main viewing stand where spirited Latin music had been blaring from giant speakers all morning. In loud and rapid Spanish, the announcers began introducing the passing parade participants, enthusiastically praising the size and beauty of the animals as well as the intricately painted designs on the carts.

         Atenas and neighboring towns are recognized for their role in the nation’s history as the pathway of the original oxcart trail created in 1843 for transporting Costa Rica’s famous coffee many miles down to the port cities of Puntarenas and Limon for export around the world. Although more modern transportation is used nowadays, the skills of training and working with these magnificent animals have been preserved along with the artistry of painting the beautiful carts. Even the children get into working with the massive animals and one little fellow seemed very much in control of his smaller pair. This young boy’s size and competence drew cameras all around him, slowing the parade until he could calmly make his passage through. In a few cases, the oxen (and some uncastrated bulls!) seemed to have a mind of their own, eagerly pushing forward despite the boyero’s efforts to slow them down with a gentle tap on the nose or a skillful application of the long drover’s stick many of them used lightly across their broad backs. Layne and I had to wonder if there had ever been any wild romps through town when an ox team decided to ignore the boyero’s instructions and literally “bulled” their way through! Not today, in any event, as the fair’s entertainment continued on into the evening’s dance without mishap. But having danced our quotient the night before, Layne and I soon headed back to our little hillside retreat for a quiet dinner and time to start blogging about what was a most enjoyable festival. 

Monkeying Around in the Jungle

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

         As promised in my last post, and before too much time elapses, let me continue the report on our trip to Finca Luna Nueva Lodge, the beautiful organic farm and conference center we visited with our good friends Penny and Joel last week. Truly, every day brings an adventure here so that if I fail to post for more than a day or two, I have too many new stories to tell to return to the old ones.

         But the Arenal Hanging Bridges tour that we took was too good not to mention and offer you a picture or two. Unfortunately, the photos I took with my older digital camera in no way capture the awesome rain forest canopy vistas that we enjoyed and Penny’s new camera ran out of battery halfway through our hike so her picture gallery is no doubt limited to the numerous shots she took of a monkey swinging through the trees above us before we even left the parking area. We were also greeted by a couple of magnificent macaws, their turquoise feathers shining in the light as we entered the park.

         As we crossed the first of 15 bridges over deep canyons filled with enormous trees and ferns and palms and other tropical plants, we spotted several monkeys in nearby trees. Suddenly, one of them jumped into the foliage just a few meters above Penny’s head! He eyed us curiously as we did him. Then as we began our walk, another monkey made a stupendous leap of some 30 feet or more from one tree to another, simply flying through open space and easily grabbing a limb as he landed. Now that’s something you won’t see in the zoo!

         I was most astounded at the size of the plants and feel at a loss to convey their magnitude. Again, the photos simply don’t do them justice. Individual fern leaves as big as a car; huge fronds on palms standing dozens of feet high; gigantic tree trunks, sprawling at the base of trees that soared upward into the canopy, their tops out of sight. The open suspension bridges allowed us to peer down into narrow rushing rivers below and view picturesque waterfalls streaming down the canyon walls. Birdcalls and cacophonous insect sounds were all around us and we would probably have seen more wildlife except for some noisy and rude Gringos behind us, laughing loudly and hollering out to each other. We finally asked them to lower their voices in accordance with park rules, only to have them respond with arrogance and nasty comments. We wondered exactly what their purpose was in coming to such a place of nature if all they wanted was to party.

         Back at FLN Lodge, we all had a chance to enjoy their non-chlorinated swimming pool, which is kept clean by an ozonator system, in accordance with their exacting organic standards. Never more than five feet deep, one could walk from one end of the pool to the other but I enjoyed more swimming than I had done in years. It was invigorating and just the right temperature, warmed slightly by the sun. While Penny and Joel went off for a horseback riding tour on our last day, Layne and I paddled around the pool then walked through the very magical Sacred Seeds Sanctuary, a garden area devoted to preserving the herbs and plants used by Costa Rican Indians for healing and health. It was there we encountered some enormous black spotted caterpillars, at least four inches long, marching along branches one behind another and clustered on leaves in the arbor. Then a climb up the lookout tower finished our morning just before Penny and Joel returned from their ride. (Below is a view of FLN from the tower.) But with clouds obscuring the summit, neither they nor we got a full view of Arenal Volcano. We truly hated to leave this wonderful resort and Layne and I hope to return to attend one of the educational conferences they offer where we will learn more about how to grow organic foods in a sustainable biodynamic garden.

         On another topic, I mentioned those two puppies we tried to help in my last post but I don’t think I’ll go into that drama too much. Suffice it to say, our efforts as Good Samaritans resulted in both of them being neutered - that’s the good news - but also an unfortunate misunderstanding with the folks who run the animal rescue operation near us. They somehow expected us to adopt the dogs when, of course, as temporary renters here we were in no position to do that. We are happy that the two pups got some medical attention, however, and we trust that they will be adopted as soon as their health allows.

         Finally, yesterday’s adventure went way beyond anything Layne or I had expected and we trust it won’t be repeated any time soon. We were riding back to Atenas from San Jose by bus, as we usually do, but fresh rains earlier in the day had made the roadway slick. It’s an extremely curving road, with steep downhill sections and hairpin turns. On one descent heading into a curve, our driver began braking hard, and then harder still, as the bus swerved and struggled for traction on the roadway. Suddenly, there was a loud bang and bump as the bus crashed into the dirt and rock embankment! Holy cow! Although several people were standing, fortunately no one seemed to be injured (and no one threatened a lawsuit as would undoubtedly happen in the USA).  There was considerable conversation in Spanish all around us as we all wondered what the damage was and we looked out the window to see what we could. The driver checked things over and within just a few minutes, we were on our way again, none the worse for the wear. But we noticed that the rest of the trip our driver took at a much slower pace, for which we were grateful. 

A Chicken of the Tree and some Happy Hogs!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

(Note: click on photos to enlarge)

What a week! Our friends Penny and Joel returned from Guanacaste on Monday night and the next morning we left for our trip to Finca Luna Nueva Lodge (FLN), a sustainable rainforest estate and eco-lodge up the road near Arenal Volcano and Lake Arenal. I’d been told that the Arenal area was quite beautiful but I was unprepared for the magnificent landscapes and jungle-scapes that we encountered along the way. Talk about the tropics! This had it all: dense, lush, verdant woodlands covering sheer mountainsides in every color of green imaginable; coconut palms, banana trees, orchids and bromeliads of every size and description; huge ferns, impenetrable bamboo groves, hanging vines and ivy, one-lane bridges that traversed rivers flowing over tumbled rocks and boulders; rolling emerald pastures high in the cloud forest, dotted with white humped-back cattle with enormous drooping ears and gentle eyes. We passed through occasional towns with colorful Tico houses and small schoolyards full of kids in their navy and white uniforms playing soccer or having sack races. We also drove past areas of agriculture with fields of yucca plants, coffee plantations or rows of pineapple with their jade and yellow spiked leaves.

         The last 2.5 kilometers of our journey to FLN was over an extremely rugged rock-filled road but our 4-wheel drive Mitsubishi was up to the task, bouncing us along in relative comfort. We arrived before check-in time but fortunately the friendly staff had our 2-bedroom family bungalow ready for us. The large comfortable cottage overlooked a broad gulch filled with banana plants and ferns interspersed among tall vine-covered trees. Soon after our arrival, Penny commented that she didn’t want to leave until she had seen a Toucan, the large and colorful birds for which Costa Rica is known. Although Layne and I have enjoyed a few visits from the big-beaked flyers at our house, none had come around while Penny and Joel were there. But within minutes of her comment, we looked up to see not one, but two of the gorgeous creatures landing in the branches above our patio, then dropping down into the banana foliage. And indeed, for the rest of our visit, we had front-row seats at Toucan Theater, as the beautiful birds flew from branch to branch and glided across the open space in front of our terrace.

         FLN Lodge is situated on a 200-acre certified organic, biodynamic farm producing ginger and turmeric along with hundreds of tropical fruits, herbs and vegetables. Some 90% of the food they offer guests comes directly from what they grow, so we had high expectations for some delicious meals during our stay and we were not disappointed. The salads were amazing with leafy greens of all descriptions, ripe red tomatoes, cucumbers, beets and other goodies. Plus, the fresh salad dressings were superb, one using their organic turmeric and another based on balsamic vinegar and herbs. Our lunch that first day was a baked yucca pie with black beans and cheese topping along with sautéed veggies. Delicious! The yucca was so smooth and creamy it reminded me of perfect mashed potatoes. Our other meals were equally tasty and healthy, other than one night when the sushi was poorly done and the miso soup had no taste. We later decided the primary chef was off that night because the next day when he was in charge, our lunch of smothered pork chops, rice, mustard greens and guacamole was outstanding and the Corvina (fish) that evening for dinner was also excellent. Breakfast was consistently first-rate, with homemade bread, gallo pinto, scrambled eggs and plates of tropical fruits from the farm.

         The FLN website describes a number of tours, most of them arranged through outside tour companies, but the “farm tour” is free to guests and it is truly an extraordinary experience. We had expressed particular interest in their organic farming systems so we were fortunate to have the Farm Manager Harold join our small group to give us a detailed account of the complex soil preparations and meticulous timing involved in their organic processes, which they even gear to certain mystical elements such as the position of the moon or stars. Harold assured us that such considerations actually play a big part in a successful crop.

         As we walked through the vast estate following our guide Roy, we found ourselves in a tropical paradise filled with exotic plants and animals. At one point, Roy stopped us and pointed way up a tall tree to a dark blob on a branch. “There’s a three-toed sloth!” he exclaimed. “It’s the laziest animal in the jungle!” Using his binoculars against our cameras, Roy managed to get a few shots of the creature, which watched us with scant interest from his perch. At another point, some workers called to Roy that there was a “chicken of the tree” resting nearby. We all walked over quickly to see what this was but there was no bird around. Then Roy pointed to an Iguana sunning itself on a log and laughingly told us it’s called a “chicken” partly for the taste of the meat. That’s one dish I think I’ll pass on!

         Further along, we observed aspects of their crop rotation system in practice. First, they let the land revive itself naturally with free-growing native plants, then they introduce goats to eat down that foliage; chickens are then put in to fertilize and stir up the soil and finally, they allow hogs to root and loosen the earth in preparation for the next planting. Those were some happy hogs, a wonderful contrast to the evils of factory farms where the pigs are caged and mistreated.

         In my next post, I’ll tell you about the Hanging Bridges Tour, the wonderful FLN swimming pool and what ever happened to those two little puppies we rescued. For now, contemplate the enormous benefits of organic farming and sustainable agriculture, both to your health and to the health of our planet. And when you have some time, I encourage you to plan a trip to Finca Luna Nueva Lodge where you can learn first-hand why organic really does matter. 

Festive Gringos and Abandoned Dogs

Saturday, April 3, 2010

(Click on photos to enlarge)

Our hopes for serving as a magnet for visitors to Costa Rica is off to a great start with our long-time friends Penny Cash and Joel Glenn’s arrival last week. On Wednesday, Layne and I hopped on the trusty autobus for the 45-minute ride into San Jose where we met them at our favorite bed and breakfast, Apartotel La Sabana, along with Penny’s older sister Karen and her fun-loving husband Joe. After Penny and I did our “happy dance” greeting, the six of us were off to Karen and Joe’s son Greg’s house in Escazu, an upscale suburb of San Jose. As noted in my last post, Greg and his wife Amanda are the proud new parents of a little baby boy named Lincoln so Karen and Joe are here doing the grandparent thing with great enthusiasm.

         Greg and Amanda are Peace Corps veterans, Greg now retired from that role and starting a new job soon at the US Embassy while Amanda has moved into a management position with the Corps. Both of them are still passionate about the program and committed to continuing its good work in other capacities. Working as a Peace Corps volunteer is an unfulfilled dream of mine so I appreciate their dedication to work that serves the poor around the world.

         The Embassy provides these young people with some pretty snazzy housing in a beautiful gated community. Their large two-story home happens to be right next to the pool. How handy is that!? Naturally, after the well-deserved oohs and ahhs over little Lincoln with his over-sized feet (that boy may be tall!), all of us, except for the new Mom, headed for the pool house with a round of beers. One round led to another and soon we had a table full of “dead soldiers,” plus a very festive group of grown-ups laughing our heads off at one funny story after another. Greg was delayed in joining the party by a car alarm that refused to shut up. But his trip to the auto repair shop was successful and inexpensive: only $10 to fix it. Following a pizza dinner with way too much wine generously supplied by Joe, we finally said goodnight and headed back to the hotel by taxi.

         After enjoying La Sabana’s delicious breakfast the next morning, P & J rented a car and the four of us headed for Atenas, finding remarkably little traffic on the roads because of Semana Santa (Easter Week), a major holiday here when the entire country basically shuts down and heads for the beach. We even found our local neighborhood festooned with bougainvillea-garlanded crosses on our walk today, apparently placed there yesterday in honor of Good Friday.

         Penny and Joel were suitably impressed with our little chalet and we had a lovely evening with cocktails on the patio watching the sunset, then Chifrijo for dinner. What is Chifrijo, you might ask? It’s a basic Costa Rican dish that I’ve adapted somewhat: rice in a bowl, topped by seasoned red beans, sprinkled with a fried meat (in our case spicy sausages), all covered with a lime-dressed cabbage slaw. It’s pretty yummy!        

         After P & J drove off yesterday headed for tourist adventures in the rain forest and on to the beach, a couple of bedraggled puppies appeared in our compound, both thin enough to slip through the metal bars of our gate. Desperately under-nourished, we can only assume that they were dropped off and abandoned. What a problem! We clearly cannot adopt the pups since we’ll be leaving in May and we are confident our landlady would not appreciate our leaving two stray dogs on her property. It is an all-too-common situation, unfortunately. Costa Ricans simply do not see companion animals with the same loving eye that most Americans do. Many are tied up and just fed now and then. Others roam the streets, un-neutered, thus producing still more strays. 

         After a consultation with our neighbor who has two small dogs herself, we decided to call our local animal rescue friends, Frances and Bruce, who live down the road. Regular readers will recall our meeting them at the school fund-raiser a few weeks ago. Since then, Layne and I have paid them a visit on our morning walk and met the house-full of 18 dogs and 5 cats that they care for. Frances has built a splendid clinic space in their home where local vets come and provide shots, spay and neuter services and emergency care at reduced costs, most of which Frances and Bruce pay for out of their own pockets. Their operation is called Lighthouse Animal Rescue and they truly do amazing good work here in Alto de Monte, providing valuable services to the local animals. Lighthouse is in the running for a $1000 prize through the Animal Rescue Site and I would very much appreciate all my blog readers taking a moment to visit that site and cast a vote for them every day, if possible. (You first click on the “Click here to give - It’s Free” purple button; on the next page, click at the top on the “Vote Today” banner. Then in the search space, type in Lighthouse and choose Costa Rica. When Lighthouse comes up, just cast your vote, then confirm it on the following page.) It’s easy! And we really want them to win that money!

         So Frances said if we could care for the dogs until Sunday when she has a spay and neuter clinic scheduled, we could bring them and the vet will treat them for worms and hopefully neuter them, if they are old enough and if their poor health will allow. After that, we don’t know what will happen. Stay tuned!