A Gringo Thanksgiving in Costa Rica

What a week! Starting with a wine tasting party, followed by two major shopping trips into San Jose and Santa Ana in preparation for overnight guests and the big Thanksgiving meal, then a second dinner party on Friday night, the departure of our company and a day of extensive cleanup yesterday. Whew! What happened to that tranquilo life we so enjoy?

Our upstairs neighbor Linda and I had been planning the wine tasting for several weeks, timing it for when her friend Barb was still here. Back in California Barb is a “wine educator,” teaching winery visitors which foods to serve with which wines. Linda herself worked in a winery in the Napa Valley, which is how the two met some years ago. In addition, Linda’s son is a vintner in Napa so these women bring a wealth of experience and knowledge when it comes to good wines.

Linda, Shannon and Yours Truly 

Linda and I had become acquainted with wine importer Shannon and her partner Keith at the food festival back in early October, where they had offered samples of their Argentinean wines. It was there we learned that if we provided the hors d’oeuvres and invited about a dozen people, they would bring wines for our guests to taste, in the hope, of course, that they might sell some of their product. After hours of deliberation, the food choices were made, with me preparing Caesar Dip with Crudités, organic goat cheese with basil on French bread and mildly spiced chipotle chicken cubes. Linda contributed ginger-soy grilled tuna and a fabulous chocolate cake while Barb came up with a delicious roasted red pepper Focaccia pizza. It sounds like a lot of food but it was all in bite-size pieces to go with each of the lovely wines that Shannon had brought. With a full moon shining across the swimming pool and our friends nibbling, drinking and socializing in the rancho, the event was a festive success. The hardest part was limiting our guest list to only 12 people; it’s amazing how many friends we have made in our short time here in Atenas.

One of those new friends is Jeannette, whom we met through our landlady Odie. A Canadian, Jeannette first met Odie and Eduardo just as we have: as a tenant. She rented an apartment from them when they still lived in San Jose and later bought the house she lives in here in Atenas from them. With company coming to spend a night, Layne and I were getting desperate to locate a few items for their comfort. In particular, we needed a Shoji screen to create a passageway through our bedroom to the one bathroom at night. None of the stores in Atenas had such a product but Jeannette thought that she knew of one in San Jose that might. We also needed twin size sheets for the foam pads, which would serve as our guest beds on the living room floor, and I had been hankering for a few kitchen items. So on Monday off we went in Jeannette’s car to Yamoni, a large upscale department store in San Jose, where we found the perfect screen at a bargain price. The screen barely fit into Jeannette’s small Chevy Tracker, but by leaning it over my head forcing me to hunker down in the front seat, we managed, then headed to PriceSmart for the rest of our shopping. PriceSmart is a Costco-type membership store which features bulk items in a warehouse environment. Layne and I bought a $30 membership so we can benefit from the good prices on things like paper towels, laundry detergent, olive oil and such. We squeezed all the bags in the back of the car but decided there was no room for any further shopping that day. On Wednesday, however, we once again drove with Jeannette to AutoMercado, a large grocery store for the last of our holiday supplies.

The new Shoji screen

Of course, Thanksgiving is not a tradition here in Costa Rica. Ticos have no history of Native Americans and Pilgrims sharing a meal, or of roasted turkey with all the trimmings and pumpkin pie. In fact, Layne and I were worried that we would be unable to even find a turkey locally but with the large expat population here in Atenas, some stores cater to the Gringo community by offering imported turkeys and other ingredients needed for the holiday. Americans who live here seem to find ways to celebrate our holidays even as we enjoy immersing ourselves in Costa Rican culture. 

Still, cooking for Thanksgiving was a challenge for me, spoiled as I have been to a great kitchen, big chopping block, free-range fresh turkey and all the organic foods I wanted back in California. Here we had to settle for a frozen Butterball turkey and I had to make do in the tight confines of my small kitchen, even mixing my own poultry seasoning from individual herbs. But it worked. Our friends Kate and Gilberto drove over from their mountain village La Estrella, and Jeannette and Linda joined us for a grand dinner served on our back patio, with our dining table and patio table pushed together to seat the six of us. Our charming landlady Odie also stopped by for a glass of wine and a few hors d’oeuvres before dinner. We apparently had such a good time, we all forgot to take pictures!

On Friday, Kate and Gilberto and Layne and I relaxed for some hours up by the pool, swimming then sunbathing with a good book. Gilberto pulled out his dominoes and challenged Layne to a match. Those two play cutthroat, as the occasional yells of dismay from the rancho confirmed, but eventually Gilberto triumphed over his Gringo opponent. 

That evening, I found myself preparing for still another dinner party as we had promised Gilberto a taste of the excellent bacon-wrapped filet mignons we buy at PriceSmart, cooked on the grill in the rancho. Since Gilberto speaks little English, we wanted him to have an opportunity to meet Eduardo, our Tico landlord, who also has limited English, so we invited Odie and Eduardo to meet us by the pool for dinner. Then it turned out Linda could also join us and offered to prepare some potatoes to grill. At one point, we even thought Odie and Eduardo’s son Estevan would be coming as well. As the guest list began to grow, my stress level began to rise, as I hastily added items to the menu and hurried to fix a salad. But it all came together in a pleasant evening of good food, good conversation and lots of laughter. It was a welcome return to Pura Vida! 

Jaco Highway Blowout!

How to change a bus tire!

We seem to be learning about the bus system here in Costa Rica the hard way, through trial and error or occasionally accident and blowout. Trial and error is when you take what you thought was the San Jose bus from Atenas, only to find yourself heading into Alajuela. That happened a week ago when Layne and I were going into the city to see my dentist and to have my new computer glasses adjusted. Instead of making the turn onto the Panamerican Highway, which leads directly into San Jose, we kept going straight toward the city of Alajuela. Since we had an appointment with my dentist and the shuttle driver was due to pick us up at a particular bus stop, Layne and I looked at each other in dismay, wondering if we had boarded the wrong bus and might be late for our ride. But no, as we soon learned from another rider, the 11:00 a.m. San Jose bus is the only one that makes such an unexpected swing through Alajuela. Live and learn! Fortunately, we made it on time for our shuttle, with a few minutes to spare.

        

Yesterday, the excitement was even more dramatic. Along with our upstairs neighbor Linda and her friend Barb, who is visiting from California, we had gotten up early to catch the 7:30 a.m. Jaco bus for a day at the beach. As we headed up the hill out of Atenas, suddenly there was a huge bang from beneath the rear of the bus and once again, Layne and I turned to each other with an “uh-oh” look in our eyes. Blowout! But with double axles all around, there was no detectable swerve, just a gentle slowing down as the driver realized what had happened and began to pull over. He exited the vehicle, followed by several helpful (or curious) Ticos, and soon we heard the clatter of tools being hauled out and the noise of men getting to work. Linda, Barb and I got out to watch the action and take a few pictures and found that the Quepos bus had stopped behind us and that driver was now helping to change the tire. Fortunately, it was an exterior tire but unfortunately, the lug nuts were on tight. It took some time but with a “cheater” length of pipe for extra leverage and a couple of beefy Ticos giving it their all, we were soon back on the road. Of course, a blowout was nothing compared to the minor crash we lived through last spring. (See blog report for April 14, 2010) So we just roll our eyes at the occasional vehicular adventures and keep counting the money and stress we save by not having a car.

        

Our day in Jaco was a blast! After arriving at the bus station on the main drag of Jaco shortly before 10:00 a.m., having met with no further incidents, we bought our return tickets, then set off by taxi for breakfast at our favorite beachfront hotel, the Hotel Cocal and Casino. Layne and I have stayed there several times and always enjoy the grassy lounge area shaded by tall palms overlooking the ocean as well as the poolside bar with the petite bartender Claudia serving us afternoon cocktails. As we settled in for breakfast, Linda and Barb were delighted with the picturesque ocean view from the dining area. Our charming waitress Katiana was attentive and friendly, practicing her English on us as we returned the favor in our broken Spanish. Linda ordered Huevos Rancheros, Barb opted for Banana Pancakes while Layne and I chose the “Typical” Tico Breakfast of eggs, cheese and Gallo Pinto. Linda couldn’t resist an order of the Jalapeno Poppers to share with us all, but she soon found that her Huevos were hot enough to satisfy her “picante” tastes. The cafe con leche was deliciously strong and our cups were refilled with alacrity.

The Hotel Cocal has an interesting history, having been one of the first oceanside inns in Jaco, built long before the more recent influx of tourist-oriented hotels and surfing shops and knick-knack stores. So far I haven’t managed to fit in an interview with the hotel manager to learn more of that history but when I do, I’ll certainly share the information with you readers.

With the day still young, we headed out to the main street for a little shopping: some souvenirs for Barb, holiday gifts for her family for Linda and a pareu swimsuit cover-up for me at a cost of less than $6. Back to the hotel for a couple of hours relaxing in the shade of the palm trees and watching the surfers try to catch a wave. Our “thirst” soon demanded attention and refreshing cocktails were not far behind. Claudia makes a mean Mojito!

As we enjoyed the afternoon, vendors offering cigars and horseback rides and ceramic vases wandered by and soon a smiling young woman named Joanne stopped with some stunning handmade jewelry. Unable to resist at least a look, we three women joined her at the fence and were soon seduced by the gorgeous amethyst and turquoise, coral and pearl that she presented and claimed to have made herself. I opted for a spectacular turquoise piece, featuring a large oval pendant. Soon after, an older woman came by with similar offerings, which made us question the originality of the ones we had bought. But it turned out, upon questioning her, that Joanne was her niece and that, indeed, the family members had made the jewelry. I completed my ensemble with matching turquoise drop earrings from Joanne’s aunt, the entire set costing only $26.

But the grand finale to our day was an outrageous seafood feast at a sidewalk restaurant called, of all things, Pancho Villa. Unsure where to have dinner before our late afternoon bus ride home, we wandered along the main street, reading menus posted outside the restaurants. At Pancho Villa, a courteous maitre ‘d approached us pointing to a 2-person seafood platter on his menu, assuring us that he could make it for four and that we would love it. He was so right! What an incredible platter of delicious seafood we enjoyed, from a large lobster tail for each of us to mahi-mahi, jumbo prawns, calamari, clams, langoustines alongside mashed potatoes and perfectly steamed vegetables plus a delicious salad. We even had a wandering minstrel serenade us. The price? Less than nine thousand colones, or about $18 per person. Pancho Villa’s was a winner and is definitely on our list for a return trip. As you can see, we all wore our new jewelry to dinner! 

(Remember, you can click on photos to enlarge.)

Make Dance, Not War!

It’s Veterans’ Day there in the U.S. of A., and I understand Wall Street is open for business. Says a lot about how much the capitalists think of our troops, doesn’t it? “Just keep America safe … for our profits,” I suppose would be their motto.

Here in Costa Rica, my thoughts are on the men and women in uniform all around the world, visualizing their safe return to their families and an end to all the conflicts, and I’m remembering my father who fought in World War II with the Navy Seabees. As much of a pacifist as I consider myself to be, I was reminded this morning of the importance of Costa Rica’s friendship with the armed nations of the hemisphere when I saw headlines stating: “U.S. Willing To Help In Costa Rica - Nicaragua Dispute If Asked” and “Canada Offers Costa Rica Military Aid.”  It seems that the disagreement with Nicaragua over just where the international border between the two nations lies is not yet over. Nicaragua is accusing Costa Rica of “expansionist pretensions,” while Costa Rican President Laura Chinchilla calls the San Juan River dredging by Nicaragua “the invasion of one nation [by] another.”

Apparently, the river has changed its course over the decades since the Cañas-Jerez  treaty of 1858  established the meandering waterway as the official dividing line between the two nations. In that agreement, Costa Rica’s northern boundary was identified as the southern bank of the river, with Nicaragua owning the river itself but granting Costa Rica unrestricted use of the waterway. An area known in Costa Rica as Isla Calero, but as Isla Portillo in Nicaragua, is now the contested part of a vast network of lagoons and water channels that makes up the eastern mouth of the San Juan where it empties into the Atlantic. And in an almost comical twist to the tale, Costa Rican media is blaming Google Maps for the confusion because it shows Isla Calero as being in Nicaraguan territory. Although Nicaragua denies that it relied on the maps, Google officials are scrambling to correct what they say was an “inaccuracy” in their online service. (Image courtesy of Search Engine Land.) 

In an effort at peace-making, the Secretary General of the Organization of American States (OAS) has recommended that all armed forces leave the disputed area on the Rio San Juan and that the two countries cooperate to clarify and demarcate the boundary. So far, Nicaragua has refused to remove its troops, arguing that they are on their own national soil, not trespassing on Costa Rican land. In fact, on Wednesday afternoon, the entire Nicaraguan National Assembly, which is ordinarily divided and squabbling along partisan lines, held a special legislative session in a local gym on the banks of the San Juan to send a unified message of defiance to Costa Rica and the OAS. But this is not the first time these two countries have argued about borders and it likely won’t be the last. Evidently, Nicaragua holds an historical grudge for Costa Rica’s annexation of the northern province of Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula 186 years ago, following a democratic vote by residents there to join the nation to the south instead of Nicaragua to the north. Time to get over it, boys!

Meanwhile, life here in Atenas, many miles away from Rio San Juan, seems unaffected by the quarrel. We are yet to hear any of our Tico friends discuss the situation and the regular Friday feria or farmers’ market has been busy as always. Unfortunately, the organic feria has been suspended indefinitely because the recent heavy rains ruined much of the crops and transportation problems related to washed out roads has prevented deliveries. But the children’s dance festival was held last weekend as scheduled and it was a festive affair indeed, with homemade food dishes and desserts for sale and cars parked in every available space near the Catholic Church community center.

Billed as “Una Hora Para Bailar” or An Hour For Dance, it was put on by Su Espacio (Your Space), an activity center and dance studio that offers ballet classes, English and Spanish classes, Pilates and aerobics, volunteer services and more. An annual event under the direction of Su Espacio owner Tina, the festival has been in the works for weeks. In fact, for a few of those weeks, I served as a volunteer dance instructor in the children’s ballet classes and watched as they perfected their routines for the event.

As usual for community affairs here in Atenas, the turnout was large and enthusiastic. Many local schools were represented, each putting forth costumed dancers to fill the stage with color and energetic movement. Cheering clusters of kids in the audience made it clear which team they supported and parents and grandparents beamed their pride. For about $3 per person, Layne and I enjoyed an evening of youthful dance in a lively atmosphere that truly captured the spirit of Pura Vida!

A Sad and Soggy Weather Report

You’ve heard of “Trial by Fire”? Well, this week has been “Trial by Flood” for Costa Rica as the nation has endured an incredible and seemingly endless deluge, partly due to the effect of Tropical Storm Tomas. The rains have literally poured down over most of the country and Atenas was no exception. Fortunately, our town has been spared the worst of the storm’s fury, which triggered deadly mudslides in the San Antonio de Escazu area, on the southwest side of the capital city of San Jose. 

[Photo courtesy of TicoTimes.net] 

There, according to news reports, at least 20 persons are dead, including several children, and as many as 30 more are missing in a series of devastating landslides that sent mud and rocks into homes below the Pico Blanco hillside in the middle of the night. Now schools are closed all around the country and roads and bridges are washed out, leaving many communities stranded and in need of supplies.

In Quepos, along the central Pacific coast, the hospital is inaccessible and now is having water supply problems. The asphalt highway, which connects Quepos and the popular Parque Nacional Manual Antonio has been undercut by the floodwaters and is impassable, requiring repairs that will take many days. [photo courtesy of A.M.CostaRica.com]

The entire country is under a “red” alert and President Laura Chinchilla has declared a national emergency. According to news reports, there are 27 emergency shelters in operation, including one here in Atenas, housing up to 1400 people and many residents report homes still full of mud and floodwaters. Even our erstwhile friends, the Nicaraguans, have offered to provide assistance to their neighbors to the south, despite the fact that the San Juan River dispute continues on with the Organization of American States now involved. (See my post on the quarrel with Nicaragua here.)

And this is November already, which usually marks the start of the dry season! No wonder Ticos are almost universally convinced of the growing impact of global warming. They can see first-hand the destructive results of climate change. According to the Costa-Rica-Guide website, Atenas averages a total of only 5-6” of rain in November but, in fact, we had over 6” in just one night this week. A.M. Costa Rica newspaper, quoting a reader, said a location on the central Pacific coast had logged 32.7 inches through 6 a.m. on Thursday. And it’s more now because the rains have continued through today. We trust the downpour will taper off shortly and we sincerely hope those affected by the storm will be able to put their lives back together soon.

Of course, as our landlady Odie often says, it’s the rain that makes things thrive here, as well as the sun, and grow they do! On our recent trip to Turrialba, when we took the butt-bruising excursion by Jeep into the deep jungles where Ginnee and Phil have their huge permaculture, organic farm, Phil pointed out a leafy plant to us, which he said cooked and tasted just like spinach. Well, we love spinach so he broke off a couple of short limbs, instructed us to let the stubs dry a week or so, then just “stick it in the ground.” We must have made an amusing sight, two Gringos toting those branches back with us on the bus, along with another gift, a fruit vine in black plastic, plus our suitcases. But we made it, then promptly forgot about the limbs, leaving them for a couple of weeks laying out on the front porch. Finally, I got around to planting them a week or so ago in the soil just below the porch and lo and behold! they have already sprouted new growth.

An even more amazing example of the fertility of this land is the tree trunk pictured in these two photos, which Odie and Eduardo cut down a couple of months ago because it was blocking the view from their home up the hill from us. It wouldn’t be so surprising that the stump which is still embedded in the ground should sprout new growth but the section cut off, now a tripod on the earth, is also putting out leaves and branches. At this rate, Odie will soon have two trees to cut down!

My veggie seedlings are also doing well but would certainly benefit from some sunshine, as would I. Nevertheless, we have been most fortunate through this soggy season of heavy rains. Our little apartment is probably 50 yards uphill from the small creek that now rages as a rushing brown river below us and the property here seems quite stable. We are comfortable and dry, if slightly stir-crazy. Our thoughts and prayers go out to the less fortunate residents across the Central Valley from us in Escazu. Let’s hope their trials are soon over.