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Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Costa Rica: Efficiency Experts Apply Here


Big news here in Costa Rica: The city of San Jose is putting up street signs! If you've never had to find a location based solely on "turn left at the red barn"-type of directions, you may not fully grasp the significance of this step. It's not that the streets have no names, it's just that nobody knows what they are. Addresses here are given in 100-meter segments, meant to indicate a city block but it's a loose measure for sure, and distances are counted from landmarks. For instance, our home address is "200 meters east of the Catholic Church, on the left side." But that doesn't get you to our house. What's on the "left side" is a street, which, unless you know otherwise, looks like a driveway, especially since the surface quickly disappears from view in a steep incline that hides the houses below. So there's that. But then, said street has two houses on it; ours happens to be the last one on the left. Try telling that to a taxi driver - in Spanish! So it's a big deal to be getting street signs. First thing you know we may even have numbers on buildings!

The other recent big news for Layne and me was that we successfully renewed our cedulas, the plastic identification card that says you are in the country legally. It's amazing to us that two years have flown by since we got residency here, but it's true. So with our friend Carmen as hired translator, we started the process a few weeks ago. I had already called our residency attorney to learn a little about the process. She explained the documentation we would need, along with a fee of $129 in colones, and she gave me a phone number to set up an appointment. Oddly to us, this transaction would be handled by the Banco de Costa Rica (BCR), a banking institution instead of immigration. Perhaps that just reflects the key point for the Costa Rican government: get the money.
My Cedula

Requirements for pensionado or retiree residency in Costa Rica include transferring $1000 per month into colones and maintaining a paid-up membership in the Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social, better known as just the CAJA, the country's universal health care system. So our first step was for Carmen to call BCR to make the appointment and learn what we should bring. This included a letter from our bank proving we had transferred the required amount of money each month, copies of our cedulas, copies of our CAJA receipt and, of course, those fees.

Next we met Carmen at our bank to get the letter, which proved to be an amusing example of Tico bureaucratic inefficiency. Layne and I had printouts of all the deposit confirmations, which included dates and dollar amounts from our online transfers. When the clerk looked at our paperwork, however, she told Carmen she was unsure whether they were acceptable. Since the banks "say" they only keep records going back six months, we had a moment of panic. If they didn't have the records and wouldn't accept ours, what would we do? Fortunately, after checking with her supervisor, she said our copies were fine. Then she proceeded to handwrite each month's date and dollar amount on a blank sheet of paper to check against the records in her computer. Never mind that the same information was right in front of her on those printouts. But finally, after a mind-bogglingly slow process, she typed up our letter and sent us on our way. Pura Vida!

For the next couple of weeks, Layne and I stressed over whether we had everything we needed: copies of cedulas, copies of CAJA receipt, copies of the bank letter, proof of Social Security income from the US Embassy, a form showing his check is direct deposited here, a letter showing I am his dependent (in Costa Rica, I'm a married woman so dependent on mi esposo) and of course, the money. We had it all organized in separate folders, carefully paper-clipped together.


On the day of our appointment, we had everything with us as we bused with Carmen to the
No photos allowed in BCR, but here's the food service at Int'l Mall
International Mall in Alajuela where the BCR was located. At BCR, however, the procedure was anti-climactic. After a long wait, (Pura Vida again), it was finally my turn. The unsmiling clerk entered in her computer my street address (see above re addresses), asked for my CAJA receipt and the $129, of course. That was it. No proof of income; no letter from the bank; no issue of dependency. She took my picture and my fingerprint - same finger, four times. Go figure. Then in a classic case of ineptitude, she lost all of the data she had entered, had to restart her computer and go through it all again. Hey, lady -- hit Save next time!

For Layne the process took less than ten minutes. In neither case did she ask for proof of income or the letter from our bank, even though that is one of the most stringent requirements. All we could do was shake our heads in amusement and count our lucky stars that our cedulas will be renewed. For how long? we asked the clerk. She didn't know. And neither will we until we receive our new cards. Sigh. Pura Vida indeed.


Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570


Sunday, March 17, 2013

Eat, Drink & Be Merry...


... For tomorrow, It's Eat, Drink & Be Merry Again!

Iguana Bread
Happy St. Paddy's Day to all, with or without green beer on your menu. Our day started with a not-so-Irish brunch at the home of our friends Jan and Tom, bakers of some of the finest bread in all of Costa Rica. Most every week at the feria we pick up a loaf of Tom's whole wheat French or Layne's favorite Iguana Bread, so named not because it includes iguana in its ingredients (thank goodness!) but for the seed-encrusted and carved brown top reminiscent of that reptile's crested and craggy back.

St. Paddy's Day Brunch 
Another of Tom's fabulous recipes is Almond Sticky Buns. Oh, wow! They are beyond decadent. And happily today they were on our brunch menu, but sliced and grilled, of all things. Along with papaya, mango and blueberry fruit salad, perfect home fried potatoes, breakfast burritos with guacamole, salsa and natilla (sour cream), coffee and fresh juice, it was a banquet fit for royalty. 

The view toward Grecia... looks chilly to me!
Enjoying the feast along with us was a couple from Grecia, which is up the mountain we can see from our house. With a home at the 4200' level, Dave and Marsha enjoy the cooler weather found at that elevation. It's too chilly for me but they come from Michigan so it probably feels downright tropical up there to them.

Today was the third installment of what has been another party-filled weekend. On Friday we feted our dear friends Sally and Leonard who have decided to head back to the States soon to embark on their next adventure: traveling in a new hotrod RV (complete with a fireplace!) and volunteering as hosts at national parks around the country. So along with Marcial and Seidy, who spend most every Friday evening with us, we enjoyed lively conversation, a few bottles of wine and a nice sautéed veggie dish with browned butter and Parmesan cheese over angel hair pasta. We will certainly miss Sally and Leonard who have been buenos amigos but we wish them well as they take off for a new life and exciting times ahead.

Yesterday was party time around the pool at Bonnie and Stephen's home in honor of Stephen's childhood friend Seth who just arrived from San Francisco for a visit. Hail, hail, the Santa Eulalia gang was all there: Marcial and Seidy and two of their sons, Felipe and Daniel (only David, who works on weekends, was missing), their friend Johan, Chris and Sue, Marc and Eroca, me and Layne and the newest members of our posse, Carmen and Roberto. Beginning with Carmen's excellent mango ceviche, huge fruit salad and her now-famous salsa verde, the food just kept coming: slow-cooked beans and pork loin, potato/bean salad, sweet coconut couscous salad and finally Chris' incredible stuffed chicken. Naturally, Eroca brought one of her outrageous desserts, this time a banana-chocolate chip cake that was muy rico. The sunny weather was perfect and Sue even improvised a net for volleyball, giving some of the group a chance to splash each other like kids at camp. Quite a day!


Volleyball in the pool
What a cake!
It hasn't been all food and parties this week, however, as we did get in a rather energetic hike last weekend as well. Following the same route we took a few weeks back along Calle Vanilla, we came again to the residence where on our previous visit the Tico family had just killed a large snake that was guilty of poaching their chickens. Our indefatigable guide Marcial had pre-hiked our road the day before and made arrangements with the sweet Tica there to have some cool drinks ready for us when we arrived. Her homemade lemonade hit the spot for us tired hikers and the throng of orchids in bloom was a feast for the eyes. (Click on these photos to enlarge; they are worth a closer look!)




Hikers Layne and Stephen take a break
Most of these are the spectacular Guaria Morada, the national flower of Costa Rica, whose rich purple tones and shimmering petals bloom from January through April. The yard was absolutely filled with their blossoms along with other varieties, all hugging the trees and spilling out from every corner. As we learned from Marcial, the elderly lady had been born in this house and, she said, she expected to be there when she "goes home to God."

Gabriel and Alu 
Although fortunately not heading home to God just yet, last Monday night we did have to say goodbye to Marcial's son Gabriel and his family as they prepared to head back to their home in Germany. Marcial's backyard, where the fire pit makes an inviting setting for good friends to gather, was the scene for our farewell get-together. After five months here in Costa Rica, I know they found it hard to face a return to work and the obligations of "normal" life. As a fitting finale to our fiesta, Gabriel and Alu serenaded the group with German and Spanish songs, a nostalgic ending to their visit and an evening we will all long remember with pleasure. Bon voyage, amigos, y regresan muy pronto!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570


Thursday, March 7, 2013

Monster Mangos and Edible Flowers


The backyard mango crop is coming in! And look at the size of these behemoths... easily 6" long and 14" in circumference! With many more on the way. We didn't think these babies were ripe yet but when our landlords were over the other day, Isaac enthusiastically picked these, saying we should take them before the birds eat them. So now they await full ripeness on the counter as I try to figure out how to make use of so many mangos coming ripe all at the same time. Fortunately, I recently learned to make Mango Chutney so that will utilize some of them. Then there's mango on ice cream, mango in salads, mango smooties and when I run out of ideas, there's always Epicurious.com, Allrecipes.com, the Food Network and dozens of other online recipe sites for inspiration.
A backyard bounty!

The chutney came about after our friend Marcial introduced us to Raymond, a local resident who sells Indian spices. As I had been looking for garam masala for a while I promptly bought that only to learn that he also had some packaged spices including Shan Chicken Curry seasoning. So along with ground coriander, cumin and Tandoori seasoning, I took a package of the curry mix and cooked it that night. Wow! It was excellent but since I used the whole package, it was quite fiery. I decided it needed some chutney to cool the heat a bit. I always thought of chutney as a complex dish but much to my surprise the recipe I found on Epicurious was rather simple. Other than chopping the mangoes, it was a quick preparation and very tasty, the perfect accompaniment to an Indian curry.

"The drinking club with a hiking problem"
With Layne home again to enjoy my cooking, we're back in our routine of regular gourmet meals. But living in a foreign country also means learning about unfamiliar foods, which was the case after our latest hike with our "gang" of friends. The very strenuous trek up took us up into a national preserve near the home of Chris and Sue, who have moved away from Santa Eulalia temporarily while they obtain residency and buy property to build on here in the "old neighborhood." They have rented the very grand home owned by our Guatemalan friend Carmen and her Tico husband Roberto, who literally built the house himself. 

The "great" Great Room
With Roberto as our guide this time, we headed up the hill behind the house into a densely forested jungle of massive trees with huge vines  wrapped around their trunks and branches, creepers as fat as a man's bicep winding up into the canopy above us. We all posed on the aboveground root or arm of one particular type of tree, which Marcial said was used by Ticos in his youth to make tables and even beds because of their flat width.
Sitting on what could be a bed!
View from the top 
We're just getting started...
Stephen and Marc
See those cattle trails?... that's where we're heading!
Eventually we emerged onto an open plateau looking out over the entire Central Valley below, tired but thrilled by the view and fully expecting a less demanding walk back to the house. Oh, but no! What was viewed by Roberto as "easy" soon proved to be a challenging and treacherous scamper for Layne and me, up and down the narrow tracks made by cattle. That's "up and down" several times! Nursing a lightweight hangover from party-time the night before with Bonnie and Stephen, Layne and I clenched our walking sticks and soldiered on, but not in very good spirits.
Can you see me? I'm the one in the red shirt
(click on photos to enlarge; hit Back button or Escape to return)
Bonnie, Layne and Eroca
Still, by the time we made it back to the house and cooled off with a cerveza, we had regained our good humor and took consolation in our successful and safe return. We were all ready for the banquet we knew was to come. Chris and Sue had promised "beer-butt chicken" and everyone else had brought tasty offerings to add to the meal. Marcial, however, had harvested an unexpected Tico treat along the way: Flor de Itabo, an edible flower of the Yucca plant here in Central America and a centerpiece of holiday meals around Easter when it is in bloom.
Photo by Frank Sullyvan Cardoza Ruiz

Marcial patiently removed the delicate white petals of the open flowers, along with the central stem full of unopened blossoms. He set all that in water and brought it to a slow boil for five minutes or so. 

Marcial removes the petals
Cooked immature buds - yummy!
Beer-butt chickens on the grill
Once done, Chris, Stephen and I sampled the small flower buds from within the stem and found them to have a piquant, slightly bitter flavor, not unlike Brussels Sprouts. Adding the softened flowers to a sauté of onions, chili dulce and eggs, Marcial produced a delicious egg scramble that tucked inside a tortilla served as appetizer along with Carmen's black bean dip and picante green salsa, Eroca's pico de gallo and my Caesar dip with veggies. We enjoyed these delicacies while we awaited the finale of those outrageous chickens. They proved well worth the wait, tender and juicy with a distinctive flavor from Chris' spicy rub. As our friend Joel would say: "Very successful!"
After dinner Daniel serenaded us with beautiful classical guitar music. He's getting better and better! 

Daniel and Layne entertain
Eventually, he invited Layne up to join him in a rousing rendition of "Pecos Bill," a humorous Western ballad that Daniel learned from Layne. All in all, another excellent day of hiking, good food and great friends.

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570