What To Do When the Taxi Goes "Boom!"

Winston and I had a little adventure today as we returned home by taxi from his vet appointment. Even the vet appointment was something of an adventure, or perhaps more of a nightmare for poor Winnie. This was a re-check on his skin problem, trying to rid him of mites causing mange, resulting in spots of hair loss. And if the hair loss itself wasn't bad enough I took a friend's advice and tried hydrogen peroxide on the spots, resulting in a spotty bleach job! Poor Winnie!

Winston is muy guapo perro - very handsome dog

For a doggie as beautiful as Winston with his luxuriant dark chocolate coat of fur, having mange is really quite humiliating for him. So we have diligently followed the vet's instructions: prednisone pills for the itching (given in a lump of peanut butter, which he loves!), twice-weekly baths with a special soap which must be left on him for twenty minutes (which we both hate!) and shots of ivermectin. It's these shots that are so awful. For some reason, the ivermectin must be very painful when it goes into the skin because poor Winston started yelping and squirming and trying to lick the spot on his back where the shot went. Last time he had to have three different shots - the ivermectin, an antibiotic and something else - and he had jumped around and yelped so much that I assumed it was just a carelessly rough technique on the part of the vet. So today I asked the doctor to be very meticulous not to hurt Winnie. But apparently it's not the vet's technique but just the intense quality of the medicine. But like the trooper he is, Winston came through like a champ.

Hair is finally growing back!

We were then off to the grocery store, practicing "heeling" along the way, and since Layne was not with us today (that's another story involving a friend with a medical problem), I put Winston in a "sit - stay" outside (and tied his leash to a door just to be sure) while I went in for our few items. In the store I ran into our friend Stephen and we chatted a few minutes about our mutual friend's medical condition. But soon my shopping was done and I went out to collect Winston - what a good boy! - and head for the taxi stand. I was pleased to see our friend and favorite taxista Nelson waiting in the taxi line so we hopped in for the ten-minute ride home.

But about halfway up a hill along the way, Boom! went the engine and suddenly smoke was pouring out from under the hood. Nelson and I simultaneously exclaimed: Uh-oh! As luck would have it we were along the route leading to the Palmares turnoff and the traffic was heavy due to the big 10-day fiesta starting today in that cowboy town up and over the mountain. But we had no choice. We had to pull over, raise the hood, put out the triangle warning stands and watch the traffic crawl by. Looking in the engine, we could quickly see that the radiator had burst. 

Winston and I wait in the car with the hood up

Maybe Nelson gets a new car out of the deal

So Nelson called his brother Jorge to come pick up me and Winston and take us the rest of the way home. Nelson says his boss will buy a new car - or perhaps just a new radiator. But he's hoping for a new car since this one has been giving him considerable problems even before today. In the midst of all this drama, however, Nelson still had a smile on his face. Now that's Pura Vida!

I am pleased to announce that Layne's novel, "Moral Turpitude, Book One of The Ange Parker Series," is now available on Amazon.com in Kindle format for just $4.99. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

A 10:27 Club Redux!

Last Thursday, only two days into the New Year, was another wild and crazy day for "The 10:27 Club" as we took off to revisit the site of our initial incarnation in the mountains above Zarcero. You might recall the incident, recorded in my blog post of October 24, 2012, in which my innocent request for a potty stop resulted in a tequila-soaked day of fun and adventure. This time the original gang was joined by a few new friends, whom I fondly refer to as "groupies," for a total of eighteen. There was the old gang of Marcial and Seidy, Bonnie and Stephen, Chris and Sue, Eroca and Marc and Yours Truly (minus Layne, who stayed home with a bunged up knee), along with semi-official members Darlene and Glynn, Howard and Judi, and Joni, who came without her jovial spouse Mike. We were joined by enthusiastic newcomers Sue and Rick and Vicki and Julian.

Around every curve, a gorgeous vista!

We piled into a jumbo-size van, driven by our capable (and sober) conductor Mainor, for the beautiful drive up the mountain past Naranjo, through Zarcero, and on up to La Posada del Buho, the Owl Inn, where Christmas decorations and even napkin holders are shaped as owls. As on our first visit, we arrived prior to the "legal" opening time of 11:00 a.m. but apparently they were expecting us because the doors quickly opened to welcome us. 

The bartender laid out eighteen shot glasses rimmed with salt and Marcial began to pour. We all checked our watches or smart phones, only to find that the times didn't agree. Was it 10:27 or only 10:24? Who knew? Who cared! Down the hatch went the first toast with a hearty cheer for The 10:27 Club! With Latin music to inspire us, we were soon dancing on the small stage, led by Glynn and Joni, followed by Eroca and Seidy and Yours Truly.

Marcial pours as Rick and Joni wait impatiently 

Does anybody really know what time it is?
Does anybody really care?

Joni and Glynn start the dancing...

... Eroca and Seidy keep it going

Eroca and Yours Truly having fun

Rick and his "earrings"

Lunch is served!

But we were there, after all, for a hike so after a couple of shots and some dancing as warm-up, we struck off up the gently sloping road. Along the way Eroca picked some stunning white flowers (lilies perhaps?), which Rick later used as "earrings." Hardcore members, Chris, Seidy, Marcial, Stephen and others made a real trek out of it but some of us decided on a less strenuous outing and soon took advantage of the van for a ride back to the bar where lunch was to be served. We all agreed the food was "¡muy rico!"

The guys pose for a photo

After our leisurely lunch, we thanked our wait staff profusely and left a nice tip, then posed for a few pictures as we tried to get organized to leave. As we were preparing to depart, we were surprised to see a herd of dairy cows traipsing down the middle of the road, herded from behind by a small pickup truck.

Cows have the Right of Way!

The drive back down the hill to Zarcero was a panorama of one gorgeous view after another so we stopped for photos several times along the way. 

Seidy adds beauty to the beautiful scene

Once back in town we made the mandatory stop at the home of the lady who makes incredibly delicious helados (ice creams), some prepared using Zarcero's famous sour cream. Chocolate with peanuts, mixed fruits, strawberry, coconut... who could decide? So most of us had more than one!

Sue, Bonnie & Stephen chow down

Mr. Miller is serious about that ice cream!

The "Ice Cream Lady"

After a few minutes exploring the fabulous topiary park in front of Zarcero's dramatic Catholic church and watching kids play in front of the beautiful mural, we were soon on our way again. 

Zarcero's topiary park

Seidy picks some "lucky" flower for us

As we passed a field of blue flowers, Seidy insisted we stop so she could pick some for us all. It seems that if you pick one of these flowers on New Year's Day, press it and put it in your wallet, you will have money all year long. Even though this was the second day of the New Year, we all hope the old custom works for us. Whether or not our day brought us wealth for the coming year, it certainly provided us with wonderful memories!

I am pleased to announce that Layne's novel, "Moral Turpitude, Book One of The Ange Parker Series," is now available on Amazon.com in Kindle format for just $4.99. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

Feliz Navidad, Cuban-style in Costa Rica

'Twas the night before Christmas

in Barrio Jesus

And the "10:27 Club"

Just had to get loose!

Chef Chris worked his magic

On Cuban pork and beans

While Club members posed

In red-dressed routines.

When the table was set

And dinner was served,

Not a creature went hungry

After seconds and thirds!

As we bade farewell

In the fading light

Merry Christmas, we yelled,

And to all a Buena Noche! 

Eroca, Layne and Marc

Gathered round the peanuts

Layne holds forth as Bonnie listens

Marc seems happy to have Eroca by his side again

And so it was that the core "10:27 Club" (minus our fearless leaders Marcial and Seidy) celebrated with a small holiday dinner last night. As we sat around the table with these good friends, we counted our blessings in having shared so many good times together this past year. Words can hardly do justice to our sense of good fortune in making amigos with this amazing group of expats.

Chef Chris focuses on his platano

Stephen supervises

Chef Chris and Sous Chef Sue 

Cubano Pork...

...And Black Beans

Layne and I are grateful for every one of these friends and for the many others in and around Atenas who have made our life here so rich with fun adventures and fond memories.

Wherever life leads us from this day forward, we will always treasure these times and these friends. Thank you and Happy New Year!

I am pleased to announce that Layne's novel, "Moral Turpitude, Book One of The Ange Parker Series," is now available on Amazon.com in Kindle format for just $4.99. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

Crazy Times in Costa Rica!

My amazing new orchid!

Boy, have I been crazy busy since we returned to Costa Rica one short month ago! When we arrived back from a two-month visit to the States, there were the inevitable reunions with friends like Marcial and Seidy, who brought me a gorgeous orchid as a welcoming gift when we resumed our regular Friday night dinners. Then there were health issues with our dog Winston -- non-contagious mange, which required weekly shots and time-consuming baths as well as daily cream applications, plus conjunctivitis in one eye, which meant applying drops 2 to 3 times a day. Fortunately, he is recovering nicely and requires less medical care now.

Lighted Bomberos' (firefighters) trucks in the parade

Within a week of our return, we found ourselves hosting Thanksgiving dinner for ten people, which was a wonderful celebration but a lot of work for Yours Truly. Almost as soon as the plates were cleared from that party, we were preparing for the visit of a very dear friend, Philisse, who had planned her trip to coincide with Layne's big 75th birthday week. To introduce her to a taste of our lives here, we took her into town the very first night for the Atenas Festival of Lights, where she enjoyed the parade and the colorful array of Ticos, children and vendors in the park.

That Sunday afternoon brought together some two dozen friends to celebrate Layne's birthday, a festive pool party at Bonnie & Stephen's place, complete with a yummy carrot cake baked by Jan & Tom of Buen Pan and lots of delicious food from everyone. Toward the end of the day, Layne offered up hilarious (if slightly inebriated) entertainment by singing a rollicking version of "Pecos Bill" to Daniel's guitar accompaniment. Philisse enjoyed meeting our friends and began to understand why we love our life here so much.

The gang at the pool

Philisse and Layne are all smiles!

Even Nelson, our taxista, and his family were there

Layne blows out his one big candle as Tom looks on

But the busy times were really just beginning. The very next day Layne, Philisse and I - plus Winston! - were off to Esterillos Oeste for a two-night stay at Rancho Coral, that cozy, pet-friendly beachfront hotel run by our friends Wilburth and Eva. There things slowed down just a bit as we laid out in beach chairs just yards from the surf, took strolls along the sand and watched Winston play with the other dogs. 

Winston, Layne and Philisse enjoy the beach

Winston, the Wonder Dog, enjoys dinner with friends

We even found a pet-friendly restaurant, Los Almendros, where we enjoyed some excellent Caribbean and Thai-style seafood while Winnie snoozed quietly beneath our table. The proprietress has promised to send me her recipe for Fish Cakes with Red Pepper Sauce. It was outstanding!

Layne and Philisse at Casa Inspiración

But with the dawning of the third day, we were heading back to Atenas just long enough to unpack, re-pack, drop Winston off with our long-suffering dog-sitter friends Chris and Sue and leave the next day for the cloud forests of Monteverde. There we stayed at our friends Veronica and Alex's charming vacation rental, Casa Inspiración, a rustic cabin perched on the side of the mountain with views across to the Gulf of Nicoya. Quite a stunning setting with quiet, peaceful gardens and a friendly dog Schnookie to keep us company.

Sunset at Casa Inspiración

Alex and his surprisingly mature young son Stuart greeted us with delicious bocas prepared by a Tica neighbor Gisell and her lovely daughter.

The next day Philisse and I were off to Sky Adventures for a bird's-eye view of the cloud forest on the Sky Tram. With blue skies as a backdrop and a strong wind whipping our hair, we savored the slow ride up to the top of Costa Rica's Continental Divide, to about 5800' elevation. Our guide Daniel said the winds were probably around 80 kph, or some 50 mph, and it felt like it! But the tram was stable and secure and we soon hopped out onto the observation platform to take a leisurely look at the dramatic scenery, including a glimpse of Arenal Volcano and distant Lake Arenal. After our return to the lower level, Daniel invited us to take a walk through their Hummingbird Trail, where many exotic species of the little aviators abound along with a number of stunning trees, plants and flowers, including some tiny orchid species that would have gone unnoticed but for Daniel's commentary.

Amazing views from the Sky Tram

Philisse on the observation platform

Such beautiful flowers!

Such vivid colors!

Philisse shoots a "Hot Lips" flower

Daniel poses with "Elephant Ears"

Philisse goes for just one more photo!

And yet again, it was soon time to leave Monteverde and return to Atenas for Philisse's final few days with us. We had such a great time showing off our beloved Costa Rica to our old friend. We can only hope that she had as good a time as we did, and that now she understands what we mean when we say: Pura Vida!

Check out Layne's novel "Moral Turpitude," Kindle edition now available for only $4.99 at Amazon.com. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/

Playing Catch Up

Our two months in the States is over and here we are back in beautiful Costa Rica. It is absolutely wonderful to be here again! But I do face a challenge in trying to summarize for you all the joys and sorrows, adventures and misadventures we had in our travels.

Our first two weeks were spent with my mom in San Angelo in West Texas, where some of the all-time best barbeque can be found. And find it we did, rather often. Our favorite place was Bodacious Barbeque where the chopped brisket and baked beans are a standout.

Chili Relleno at Henry's

But we also wanted some Tex-Mex, chock-full of the spices and chilies that we miss in Costa Rican food. Armenta's, Los Panchito's and Henry's all fit the bill; we enjoyed enchiladas, tacos, chili rellenos and nachos to our heart's content.

One of the main attractions for us in San Angelo is Sealy Flats Blues Bar and Diner, where live music is on stage most every night. Lucky for us, my old friend world-class blues diva Candye Kane was playing there just a week into our stay. With help from her outstanding band, featuring that killer lead guitarist Laura Chavez, Candye brings the house down every time she steps on stage decked out in one of her sparkly, spangled costumes. We made it to the club for two of the three nights she performed and loved every minute.

Candye and Yours Truly

But it was soon time to head for Portland where much less happy duties awaited us. With Layne's sister Annie in the last stages of cancer and suffering as well from Alzheimer's, we knew that her time with us was limited, and indeed, she passed away only days after our arrival. Then the sad task of planning her memorial service fell to us and a few other loving relatives, culminating in a beautiful and remarkably celebratory event honoring her life of love and devotion to family and friends.

Fun in the cold!

Our work in preparing and conducting the memorial service meant canceling our trip to California to see my son Damian and grandson Kai, a missed contact that we deeply regretted. But we did manage to drive to Central Oregon for an overnight visit with Penny and Joel, very dear friends from our horseback-riding days in California. Although the weather was a bit chilly for Layne and me, accustomed as we are to the tropics, Penny served up delicious food as always, and Joel entertained us with his wry humor. It was as if we had been together only the day before.

Upon our return to Portland, we found time for a few walks enjoying the beautiful fall colors and watching a family of muskrats gamboling along Fanno Creek trails.

But soon it was time for us to return to Texas where we planned to spend most of our two-month stay helping my mom with some of the projects around her house and getting the upstairs in shape for our eventual residency there next spring. Now that my mom is a woman "of a certain age," Layne and I feel that we need to be with her to make her life a little easier. She's a very independent person and we respect that, but we also know that some things have become difficult or painful for her so we plan to step in to ease the load a little. Besides, it's free rent!

Even in the last days of our trip, we managed to squeeze in a very brief, but utterly wonderful visit to rugged and scenic Big Bend National Park in southwest Texas. Our good friends Sally and Leonard, expats we met here in Costa Rica a few years ago, last spring decided to return to the U.S. They bought a luxurious big RV and are now serving as volunteer hosts at national parks around the nation, feeding their unquenchable taste for adventure. It was our good fortune that they had just begun a gig at Big Bend and when they invited us to visit, my mother urged us to go. She had visited Big Bend some years ago and she assured us it was not to be missed, especially with well-trained hosts to guide us. And by Texas standards, it was not all that far away: only a four to five hour drive!

So we rented a car and drove across the boring West Texas landscape to Big Bend, which turned out to be a stunning park of amazing geologic formations and extravagant desert vistas. Our first afternoon there, with Sally doing volunteer work in the Visitor's Center, Leonard drove us for miles around the huge park, all the way down to the Texas-Mexico border of the Rio Grande and Santa Elena Canyon, a truly astounding panorama of vertical cliffs running along the shallow meandering river channel. 

Our guide Leonard points out the geology

 Solitary hiker at Santa Elena Canyon: Mexico on the left, Texas on the right

The next morning all four of us made the drive up to Chisos Basin, a magical valley at 5400' elevation held in the embrace of huge rock formations and monstrous volcanic peaks such as Casa Grande, which towers over the Basin at 7300 feet. As we enjoyed the breakfast buffet and the view through the "Window" to the desert far below, we had the good luck to see a mother black bear and her two cubs scrambling down the side of a nearby hill. Unfortunately, the battery on my camera was dead and Sally's shots on her phone didn't quite work but what a thrill it was to see these animals in their own habitat and to enjoy spectacular Big Bend National Park.

Soon it was back to San Angelo and last preparations for our return to Costa Rica and the happy reunion with our adorable puppy Winston. No longer the little insecure fellow we left in the excellent care of our friends Chris and Sue, now he's all grown up and well deserves his nickname: The Moose!

Check out Layne's novel "Moral Turpitude," Kindle edition now available for only $4.99 at Amazon.com. Five star reviews! High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. A great read! Pick up your copy here -http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HI25M1K/