Brittany's Costa Rican Birthday Bash

So did you miss me? I have been away awhile, escorting my long-time friend Brittany around the country. She decided she did NOT want to celebrate her 40th birthday in New York City so she hopped on a Jet Blue and spent nearly two weeks with Layne and me and our puppy Winston, who rather fell in love with her. In part, she was checking out Costa Rica as a possible place to relocate where life would be less stressful and less expensive than NYC. Although we spent one morning looking at apartments, mostly she and I made overnight trips to our favorite resorts, such as Bahia Rica on the Nicoya Peninsula and Finca Luna Nueva near La Fortuna.

But we started right here in Atenas with the El Toledo Coffee Tour, guided by our friend Gabriel who sells organic coffee at the feria each Friday. We were joined by part of the Santa Eulalia gang, Chris and Sue and Bonnie, along with Layne who handled wild dog Winston, for the long winding climb up the mountain to the El Toledo farm. Gabriel explained in detail the history of the farm and why and how they switched to organic permaculture farming some twenty years ago after his father realized that pesticides and chemicals were causing his health problems. It was a steep learning curve for them and not immediately profitable. In fact, even now they make less than before the change but as Gabriel said, "Our family's health and the health of the planet are priceless."

Gabriel explains coffee to Bonnie while Winston wanders

Beans fresh from the roaster

After Gabriel's educational talk and a delicious "coffee tasting" experience, we hiked along the steep trails through the farm, learning as we went and enjoying bites of the multitude of fruits that grow unaided among the coffee plants. Brittany really enjoyed the tour and we highly recommend it.

Next on our agenda was a sea kayaking trip to Bahia Rica, a rustic lodge near the Paquera ferry landing run by a friendly Norwegian couple, Vigdis and Thomas, offering tours of all kinds, from sport fishing to snorkeling to whale and dolphin watching. The kayak trip, however, almost did Brittany in as the vigorous paddling aggravated carpel tunnel and tendonitis in her right hand, causing so much pain that for the return trip, Thomas hitched her kayak to his and towed her back to the lodge. Even though Brittany was a bit discomfited to need the help, she did say it allowed her some leisurely sightseeing. And there was plenty to look at because the scenery among the islands there in the Gulf of Nicoya is stunning, although we were saddened to see how terribly polluted the Gulf has become.

On the Paquera Ferry... can she be 40??

Brittany on the porch at the lodge

Lucky for us, Thomas had just snagged a huge corvina or sea bass on a fishing trip the day before and the dinner he prepared with it was fabulous. We enjoyed lively conversation, much of it about food and cooking, with Deborah and Steven, a pleasant couple on vacation from Colorado. Since I had mentioned to Thomas and Vigdis that it was Brittany's birthday trip, he even baked a yummy chocolate cake and served it with ice cream and a candle on top!

Finca Luna Nueva pool

Finca Luna Nueva, a huge organic farm and conference center near La Fortuna, was our next outing and it allowed for some nice relaxation on the veranda of our spacious family bungalow. The afternoon of our arrival, I went for a swim in their big spring-fed, non-chlorine pool while Brittany opted for the hot tub. There she met Joseph who works for FLN as a microbiologist, studying ways to sequester carbon in the soil and plants. When I joined them after my swim, we all had a most fascinating conversation about soil biology and the principles of permaculture. For more information on the biodynamic systems used at FLN, visit Joseph's blog.

The next morning we were up bright and early for a horseback ride to Arenal Volcano.

View from my horse Luna

Brittany in control again

Brittany and Yours Truly enjoy the view

Brittany is not the experienced rider that I am so she had a few rather exciting moments as her mount had different ideas than she did on which way to go. But she managed to coax the beast along the steep and muddy trail to a high point beneath the volcano that offered us a splendid, if slightly cloudy view.

Hands-free! Brittany takes a picture of Cesar, our guide, volcano in the background

Finally, on Tuesday the 14th, it was Brittany's special day and along with Layne we headed to Jacó to celebrate her birthday. The weather cooperated with beautiful sunshine and a few drifting clouds. So with Mojitos and Margaritas in hand, we lazed around for the afternoon, wandering along the sandy beaches and taking a few dips into the powerful surf before heading home for her to pack.

All in all, it was a fun-filled holiday. We hope Brittany enjoyed it all as much as we did. Happy Birthday, honey! 

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Arenal Adventures and Jaco Tacos

It seems like all I do lately is sit here at the computer screen checking airfares to the U.S. With summer just around the corner, Layne and I are trying to make plans but the air ticket prices are just ridiculous! (See my latest column for TheCostaRicaNews.com for more on this.) And it’s a moving target. Just when I think I’ve found a reasonable fare on something other than a “red-eye,” the next day the cost has gone up another $25 or more. It’s nuts!

But since this is such a quiet week here in Costa Rica with Semana Santa (Easter Week) closing everything down like a nuclear disaster, it seems a good time to continue my report on our vacation trip with Sue and Christine. After such a wonderful few days at Bahia Rica (see my last post for details), we reluctantly headed for the ferry again on Sunday morning in time for Thomas to pick up the next arriving sport-fishing guests. Once on the Puntarenas side, we taxied to our rental car pick-up spot and headed up the road toward Lake Arenal.

Lake Arenal

Angling northwest from the magnificent and still active Arenal Volcano, the lake is the largest land-locked body of water in Costa Rica, with a surface covering nearly 33 square miles and a depth of some 200 feet. The hydroelectric dam, which tripled the size of the original lake back in 1979, now provides about 12% of the country’s electric energy. The beautiful rolling pastureland and green forests that surround the lake attract a large number of tourists and also provide home to many expats who prefer the area’s cooler temperatures. With dependable winds for much of the year, the lake is a magnet for windsurfers and sailboarders. Because of the popularity of kayaking on the vast waters, we thought we would be able to tackle another paddling adventure during our stay there.

The dramatic facade of Hotel Tilawa

But this was not to be. Our choice of Hotel Tilawa turned out to be a mini-disaster. In working on his novel, Layne had researched hotels in the Arenal area because one of the book’s main characters owns property there. This hotel had come to his attention via the Internet and one of the scenes in the novel takes place there. Photos of the hotel and activities offered on the website made it sound ideal for our three-day stay. Although Hotel Tilawa has an interesting history, features a dramatic Minoan theme and some nice views, the website definitely exaggerated the facilities. Too windy for kayaking, no direct access to the Lake, a spa that needed an hour to warm up and pool cues that lacked tips: these were just some of the challenges we faced. And incredibly, with dozens of rooms on two floors, a large sitting area with a working fireplace, huge swimming pool, organic garden, microbrewery on the premises and more, we were the only guests! The eccentric proprietor J.P., who built the place 18 years ago, and his family live there, along with a few Tico workers but that’s about it. J.P. quickly made it clear that he is tired of running the hotel and his children seem uninterested in taking over from him. No wonder the place has gone to seed. As Sue and Christine, who are budding screenplay writers, described it: Hotel Tilawa was "The Shining" meets "Night of the Iguana" via a minotaur's labyrinth, complete with murals of bare breasted Cretan maidens jumping over bulls!

J.P. is in his early forties, a tall, rangy man  of very strong opinions who displayed a fast-talking, insensitive and cynical nature that I particularly found annoying. Try to ask him a question and before you can finish, he is speeding ahead, talking over you, assuming he knows what you want. His focus seems to be perfecting the recipes for his microbrewery, and by the way, sampling those products frequently throughout the day. Layne and I spent an interesting hour talking with him and his brewmaster after dinner discussing beer-making, politics and the internships advertised on the hotel website. Whereas we had once entertained the idea of applying for one, we soon changed our minds.

Our reservation was for a two-bedroom suite, but that turned out to be unsuitable because there was only one bed in each room and Sue and Christine preferred not to share. J.P. was kind enough to offer us separate rooms at the same price, but when Sue and Christine looked at this second choice, they discovered that the bathroom was infested with small ants. When we mentioned this to J.P., he shrugged and said, “Well, they were here first,” adding, “There are lots of bugs in Costa Rica. Most won’t hurt you.” No offer of a different room despite the fact they were all empty. Go figure.

As cocktail hour arrived, we asked for ice. None was available but J.P.’s wife valiantly stabbed at a frozen chunk in a bowl, reducing it to pieces still somewhat large for a glass. Nevertheless, we managed to mix drinks in our room before coming down for dinner. As the only guests, we were painfully aware of just how much staff was required for only four people. No wonder J.P. seemed happy to see us leave the next day, cutting short our visit.

The morning hike downhill; watch for barbed wire!

The best part of Hotel Tilawa was Gabriel, an altogether pleasant young Tico who works very hard to make guests feel comfortable. Friendly and personable, he built a fire for us and sat chatting enthusiastically about the various tours he could arrange. But by then we were leery about the place so we put off a decision, opting instead for a hike down to the lake the next morning. After searching around for the trail, we headed down the steep and densely wooded hill, crawling through barbed wire fences, only to discover there was no access to the lake. ICE, the electricity company that owns Lake Arenal, has fenced around it. J.P. had neglected to mention that when we got to the road, we should turn right to reach an entrance. No wonder Hotel Tilawa’s former popularity with windsurfers has dwindled to nothing.

Needless to say, the hike was aborted and Sue and I headed quickly back uphill to check out, get the car and return to pick up Layne and Christine. Halfway up the slope, huffing and puffing, we realized the other two had our room keys and Layne had the car key! But those difficulties were short-lived and with apologies to J.P. (who actually seemed relieved), we were soon off in our rental car, heading for the beach. Onward to Jaco, where we always have a good time. This trip was no exception. 

Pool and courtyard at the Flamboyant Hotel

"Flamboyant" Orchids

Sisters Sue and Christine on their balcony

We discovered a new hotel, the Flamboyant, located right on the beach, with lovely gardens, a great pool and a guarded parking lot. With a friendly and courteous staff, the Flamoyant is our new favorite. We also found a cool taco bar nearby, cleverly named Taco Bar, with fabulous fish tacos and a great breakfast. After two comfortable nights at the Flamboyant, a couple of delicious seafood dinners and hours lounging by the pool, we were ready for the trip back to Atenas.

Dinner out in Jaco

Jaco Surfer

Sunset at Jaco Beach

 Unfortunately, the second morning in Jaco, Layne awoke with a sore throat, which developed into a major sinus infection and put him out of commission. Within days, I was also a bit under the weather as well. That turn of events meant that Sue and Christine spent the last few days of their visit off in San Jose without us. But at least they were able to enjoy several excellent tours of cool tourist spots and museums that they had hoped to visit. All in all, it was a fun trip with good friends.

Mooning the Howler Monkeys

“In sickness and in health” took on a whole new meaning this week as Layne and I have both been under the weather with cold/sinus infection blues. Feeling tired and stuffed up offers no incentive for writing, that’s for sure.

But as Lady Gaga might say, “The show must go on.” Did you see her terrible fall from the piano bench during her Houston show recently? Goodness, the woman is a real trooper to keep on singing after a tumble like that. Even if she was lip-synching, as some cynical commenters charged, it was still amazing that she got back up and kept performing.

Katia at Apartotel LaSabana

So I’ll try to buck up and offer a brief report on our recent (pre-snuffles) travels with friends from Oregon, Sue and Christine. We met them at our San Jose home-away-from-home, Apartotel LaSabana, the comfortable inn located just far enough from downtown to feel safe and secure but close enough to be convenient to museums, parks and restaurants. Although Layne and I arrived quite early, our two-bedroom suite was all ready for us so we had time to lie around the pool. One of the best things about Apartotel LaSabana is the helpful staff so while we awaited Sue and Chris’ arrival, I got some friendly advice from desk clerk Katia regarding the bus schedule for the next morning -- destination: Paquera on the Nicoya Peninsula by ferry from Puntarenas.  After due consideration, we opted to take a later ferry rather than push our jet-lagged friends on to the early bus to Puntarenas.

Puntarenas Ferry Terminal

Following the relaxed and delicious Tico breakfast at Apartotel LaSabana, we headed to the bus station for the two-plus hour ride to Puntarenas, a rugged port city that stretches out along a narrow peninsula into the Gulf of Nicoya. As we dropped down from the Central Valley toward the Pacific coastline, the weather changed from fresh and comfortable to muggy, hot and humid, a dramatic illustration of the microclimates in this small country.

Vigdis, our lovely hostess

Humidity notwithstanding, the short ferry ride to Paquera was delightful as sea gulls, pelicans and frigate birds sailed the ocean breezes around us while we nibbled on leftover lamb from dinner the night before and sipped Costa Rican beer. Soon enough we pulled into the dock and were met by Vigdis Vatshaug, a captivating sun-tanned beauty who with her husband Thomas Jones runs Bahia Rica, a fishing and sea kayaking lodge just a few minutes drive over rough road from the ferry terminal. With her vibrant smile and sun-bleached hair, Vigdis presented the perfect beach welcome to us weary travelers.

One of the many exotic birds 

Relaxing on the veranda

Vigdis and Thomas are charming Norwegians who met via the Internet and have successfully fulfilled their dream of running a fishing company and bed-and-breakfast business in the heart of the tropics. Located at the top of a large hill with views of the Gulf is the lodge, a unique pole-built structure constructed by the Dutch owner to European standards, offering three large rooms with a queen and a single bed in each. Rising two stories up into a jungle of trees, with long open verandas on each level, the lodge brings guests into close contact with wildlife all around.

A View for the Monkeys

And boy, was there some wildlife! Colorful exotic birds and a variety of butterflies flitted through the trees on the second floor where we stayed and howler monkeys moaned their distinctively fearsome calls only yards away. Situated between two sleeping rooms, the upstairs bathroom was an open-air arrangement, which we shared with our Atenas friends Sally and Leonard who had arrived earlier by car for this two-night stay at Bahia Rica. Showering with howler monkeys watching from their treetop perches was quite a bizarre experience!

It was a treacherous path down the steep hillside 

that led to Vigdis and Thomas’ rustic beachfront cottage, set in a clearing full of mango and cashew trees and adorned with tempting hammocks at the water’s edge. Sally and Leonard opted to make the extreme climb back uphill to the lodge but Layne and I, along with Sue and Christine, only managed the vertigo-inducing hike down.

All the meals prepared by our hosts were delightful, including Norwegian breakfasts of homemade bread, light meats, cheese, sliced tomato and cucumber. Vigdis showed cooking creativity the first night by adding mango to chicken quesadillas. Delicious! The second night we enjoyed fresh-caught mackerel that Thomas had snagged on an outing with sport-fishing clients, then cooked for us himself. It was truly the best fish I’ve ever eaten, just lightly breaded and sautéed, served with salad and mashed potatoes. 

The happy kayakers! 

Our morning sea-kayaking excursion was adventuresome and strenuous fun as we paddled our way out into the Gulf, along the way watching schools of leaping black tuna feed on sardines in the surface waters. We circled nearby Jesuito Island and stopped for snacks at a secluded beach inhabited only by a family of Ticos. Frolicking in the shallow water was a small girl who shyly befriended me and pointed out her house at the top of the surrounding cliff. I enjoyed a leisurely swim in the incredibly warm waters until it was time for us to move on and reluctantly make our way back to Bahia Rica. Along the way we were suddenly bombarded by an aerial feeding frenzy as dozens of large black frigate birds, with their scimitar wings and forked tails, began diving headlong close to our kayaks, grabbing some of the sardines away from the tuna. An amazing sight!

At noon we crowded into Sally and Leonard’s SUV and headed into the little town of Paquera for lunch. Talk about a step back in time. It felt like Hawaii in the 50’s with kids riding along dusty roads on bicycles, mangos hanging in clusters from the trees and bougainvillea lining the yards. Our lunch at Mapi’s, a small hotel and restaurant run by a Tico family, was excellent and inexpensive.

One very virile monkey!

As we lounged on the verandas that afternoon, a whole family of howler monkeys paid us a noisy visit -- a mother with a baby on her back who kept her distance, a big male with enormous pink testicles which drooped down below the branches where he sat arrogantly observing us and several others leaping through the tree limbs. Although we have heard the sound of howlers now and then even here in Atenas, we had never before seen them. Being so up-close and at their level in the treetops was a thrill.

And yet this wonderful two-night adventure was just the beginning of our travels with Sue and Christine. As we waved goodbye to Sally and Leonard in Puntarenas following the ferry ride back across the Gulf, we headed off to Lake Arenal for still more exciting activities. Stay tuned! 

No Water? No Internet? Pura Vida??

What a funny, unpredictable country Costa Rica is! In my last post, I reported the frustrating saga of the undelivered remote control from SKY TV and the numerous trips to the post office and phone calls to the company trying to track it down. In that last phone call when Tech Support guided me through a repair of the frozen television picture as well as a resuscitation of the unresponsive clicker, the techie had also canceled our order for a new remote control since we no longer needed one. So what happened yesterday morning? At 7:15, there was a call from the post office informing me that the remote control had been delivered. LOL! Somehow I managed to convey the information that the order had been canceled and our patient postal clerk said fine. I presume the unwanted clicker will be returned to SKY. Now we’ll wait and see if the $19 charge for the thing is on our next bill. If it is, still another call will be required to reverse that. Patience, Gringa, patience.

Downtown San Jose traffic 

Meet my dentist, Dr. Alberto Meza

So after being without water off and on for days now, yesterday and this morning we had no Internet. Costa Rica may not be “third-world,” but it’s not exactly “first-world” yet either. As addicted as we are to online news and email and Facebook contacts, it has been a trying couple of days. 

The Internet is truly our lifeline to the world and to family and friends back home. Easing the pain yesterday was the fact that our Tai Chi class filled much of the morning, then in the afternoon we bused into San Jose to my dentist’s office to pick up a night guard. Dr. Alberto Meza assures me that I need to wear this mouthful of plastic in order to protect the implant he did several years ago on my first medical tourism trip to Costa Rica. Being a light sleeper, I do hate the thing. But the implant has been so reliable and trouble-free, it seems prudent to follow the doctor’s orders on this.

The rainy season has evidently started early this year. As the clouds appear here in the early afternoon and the thunder rolls in the distance, it’s clear we’re in for another shower today, the third day in a row for late-afternoon precipitation. At least we don’t have to water the garden so much now. But it could spell trouble for our friends’ Sue and Christine who are due to arrive on Thursday for a visit. As reported in my last post, their original flight was canceled at the very last minute, literally at 4:00 a.m. when they arrived at the gate.  

Part of last year's Oxcart Parade

 La Estrella Valley

But the silver lining to this story is that their re-booked trip is now two weeks instead of only one, giving us much more time to tour the country. And we do have some great trips lined up: sea kayaking and off-shore fishing at Bahia Rica on the Nicoya Peninsula; more kayaking, hiking and volcano watching at Hotel Tilawa on Lake Arenal; enjoying this year’s Climate Fair and Oxcart Parade here in Atenas; and finally, visiting their high school pal, Layne’s first wife Kate, and her Tico husband Gilberto high up in a tiny mountain village called La Estrella, or The Star. Along the way we’ll visit the Gold Museum, the Jade Museum and perhaps the beautiful Teatro Nacional in downtown San Jose. All in all, it promises to be a pretty fabulous trip not only for our visitors but for Layne and me as well. We’ll be seeing some parts of Costa Rica that we’ve never visited and I look forward to sharing some of our adventures with you! Pura Vida!