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Showing posts with label Costa Rican ecology. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Costa Rican ecology. Show all posts

Monday, February 18, 2013

The Hike From Hell!


Happy Birthday to me, I fell on my knee! 

Yes, today's my birthday and it'll be party time here tonight. The Santa Eulalia gang is bringing all the food for a celebration of my big day. And indeed, I am nursing a bit of a bunged up knee from a fall in the river on yesterday's "hike from hell," as Chris baptized it after my dunk in the drink. There'll probably be no dancing for me tonight.

Marcial reconnoiters far down the hill
Yesterday was actually one of our most beautiful and fun treks, but it was difficult, steep and challenging. To summarize, we had three bloodies, two fallers, one punctured and one quitter. Well, Eroca didn't really quit; she just decided on that first steep downhill that she had on the wrong shoes, so she turned back and walked most of the way into town to where Marc was doing his Sunday shift at Kay's Gringo Cafe. A very wise move, as it turned out; they were definitely the wrong shoes for this hike. 

The rest of us trudged on... and on ... and on, following steep cow trails down to the river that meanders through Santa Eulalia before eventually joining up with the Rio Grande in the canyon far below Atenas.
Seidy heads down the hill

Sue snaps Chris "caught" as Eroca looks on
Things were off-kilter from the start: I tore my favorite shorts before even leaving home, Chris and Sue missed their bus, Seidy forgot her camera and Sue's camera battery died after one shot. Then navigating the first barbed wire fence, Chris decided that given his height, he should just step over the fence instead of going through as the rest of us had. Oops. His pant leg caught on the wire, cut his leg a bit and yanked a hole in his favorite pants. First blood was drawn.

Marcial removes the spike
When we had almost reached the bottom of the hill, Sue took her first fall, sliding feet-first on the powdery dirt right into my boots, but I managed somehow to stay upright as we laughed at the treacherous terrain. Finally we reached the river only to find that Marcial had stepped on a huge thorn somewhere along the way. So we sat on some rocks while he dug the offending spike out from his boot.

Marcial helps Sue over the rocks
It being the dry season, the river was quite low leaving many exposed rocks for us to scramble over and allowing a lengthy exploration of the stream. As one bank became impassable, we would simply cross over to the other side, switching sides four or five times. It was on that last crossing that I foolishly decided to follow Seidy, who had stepped lightly across the water on rocks that seemed well spaced to me. But I'm much bigger than Seidy so as I reached with my left foot for the next rock, the stone under my right foot rolled and down I went, catching myself with my right hand and right knee. As I extracted myself from this ignominious position, submerged up to my thighs, Marcial quickly said: "Give me the camera!" It seems the featured players in my regular narratives here enjoy seeing their pictures so Marcial definitely had his priorities in order. Of course, everyone was asking if I was okay and other than a slight pain in that knee and my injured pride, I was fine. Luckily, so was my camera and cell phone. But with blood dripping from a small split in the shin, I became "second blood" on this hellacious excursion. Later Marcial himself became "third blood" as some brush tore his leg. Lesson learned: follow Marcial, our fearless leader Costa Rica Dundee, not little Seidy who moves like a cat.





The scenery along the river was splendid, however, especially one amazing sheer cliff that soared high above us with chunks of rock hanging precariously from the upper reaches. Each layer of rock seemed to extend further out over the river than the one below it, making it appear as if the rock face was leaning toward us. One good earthquake, we decided, and that that big mass of rock hanging by only a narrow strip would come tumbling down, as we could see many hundreds of other boulders had done in the past.
Boulders for a river crossing
At one spot where we wanted to cross, the river was uncooperative offering no suitable causeway so Marcial and Chris proceeded to build a "bridge" by moving large rocks into the shallows of the stream. As they did so, Marcial noticed a dark "rock" he had almost stepped on before realizing it was a turtle. The poor fellow became a star attraction for a few minutes as we stopped to admire him and take his picture before setting him back into the creek.
Chris building a "bridge"; Marcial holding our turtle
Señor Tortuga
Seidy urges me on!
But what goes down must come back up so it was soon time for the uphill portion of the hike, the part Sue and I dread. As well we should in this case as parts of the trail were almost vertical, or so it seemed. At each switchback we would take a short break, drink water and question Marcial as to how much further we had to go. "Oh, not too much farther," he would say. Sue and I would exchange skeptical looks, having heard the same thing at the last stop. At one point, I asked Marcial if he knew where we were or if perhaps we were lost. "No, not lost," he said, "but we do have to find our way from here." Isn't that about the same as lost?

Sue takes a break with the valley below
A bunch of cute piglets
Eventually we began to see familiar landmarks -- the chicken farm in the distance, an old abandoned cabin on a hillside. Crossing through still more barbed wire fences -- some of which left more bloody marks on our legs -- we arrived at a small pig farm located behind Marcial and Seidy's property. By now Sue and I were definitely dragging, trying to avoid catching our boots on vines or stumbling over the rough ground. Indeed, Sue's second fall was on grassy furrowed ground just beyond the pig farm. But no harm, no foul, as we say.

Just squeeze!
Walking through orchards behind Marcial's home, we stopped under an orange tree where Seidy deftly used her walking stick to knock down fruit, which Marcial then peeled and cut off the top for a fresh-squeezed cup of orange juice! "Vitaminas y minerales," Seidy said sagely, and indeed the juice was a definite pick-me-up. 

But it was the cervezas on Marcial's patio that really brought us all back to life. Joined now by Stephen, Eroca and Marc and fortified by fresh fruit and sausage sandwiches we enjoyed a long and wonderful afternoon, looking at family photos of the boys when they were kids and of Marcial and Seidy as a young married couple. It was a memorable time for us all as we continued to deepen our friendship sharing good food, intimate conversation and the joys of Pura Vida!




Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at -- https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570


Saturday, November 10, 2012

Parties, Protests and Photo Projects

The "late crowd"

Given how close we live to a "blue zone" here in Costa Rica, one of those areas around the world where people seem to live much longer, you might think that turning seventy would be no big deal. After all, if you're likely to live to be 100 or more, seventy is practically a teenager. Nevertheless, when we learned that our good friend Marc was leaving his sixties behind, it seemed like a good excuse for a party. So on Friday the 2nd of November, Layne and I hosted a big to-do for Marc and about thirty of his friends and it turned out to be a festive event indeed. Even our favorite bus driver Johnny and his wife showed up plus several people we didn't even know were invited!

As luck would have it, just before party starting time, the heavens opened up and we were hit with the kind of downpour that only happens in the tropics. Although it did deter a few people who were coming from a distance, most locals braved the weather and made the trip up to Santa Eulalia. Unfortunately, the inclement evening made dancing on the back patio difficult since chairs were congregated on the "dance floor." 
The crowded "dance floor"
But my spaghetti -- made of course with Marcial's Italian Sausage -- Eroca's eggplant parmesan and Stephen's fabulous salad were welcome treats for the stalwart group. At the birthday boy's request, his cake was the decadent Delicious Temptation chocolate-on-chocolate-topped-with-caramel concoction made by the crew at Kay's Gringo Postre; it was definitely the star attraction of the dinner. Wow, what a cake! 
Marc with that Delicious Temptation cake
The early crowd soon made way for the late crowd and even with Eroca's invaluable help in the kitchen, Layne and I were still cleaning up as midnight came and went.
Eroca on KP
Nevertheless, the extravagance of Friday was no excuse to avoid our walk on Sunday morning but at least we all agreed to push the hour a bit later. At 9:30 a.m. Layne and I were on our way to Marcial and Seidy's, Marc and Eroca's, then on to Stephen and Bonnie's place where we hiked off cross-country toward San Jose Sur, a community up the road toward Palmares from Santa Eulalia. Along the way, we were met by a horde of racing bicyclists as they tore along the back roads, watching carefully to avoid potholes. As some of us took a break on a bridge, we noticed a huge nest in a tree hanging out over the stream, apparently home to a zillion termites. 

Bicyclists heading our way
A home for termites
Stephen under a huge Guanacaste tree
The plan was to time our walk so we could enjoy lunch at the beautiful El Mirador el Pueblo, a glass-enclosed restaurant with killer views that boasts some of the best fish around. The owner is an old friend of Marcial's, as he used to run a small bar and restaurant just around the corner from our house and thus almost across the street from Marcial and Seidy's place. Naturally, we got first-class service at El Mirador. Most of us chose a "casado," a curious Tico term that means "married" but also refers to a typical Costa Rican plate of rice, beans, salad, plantain and your choice of meat. In our case, we opted for the excellent corvina, or sea bass, browned to perfection.

After such an indulgent weekend, Layne and Bonnie and I dragged ourselves to the gym on Monday morning to work off some of the good times. At the grocery store afterwards, we happened to see our friend Eric who runs the organic market here and who informed us of a demonstration set for the next day in San Jose to protest the introduction of genetically modified seeds into Costa Rica. Since Layne and I had plans to go into San Jose anyway, we decided to put on our journalist hats and attend the event in order to write up a report for The Costa Rica News. It turned out to be well worth our time with almost 100 people standing against transgenicos, as genetically modified products are called here. You can read my article in the Eco section of TCRN tomorrow.


"Perro" protester
Our trip into San Jose was originally set up with Felipe, Marcial and Seidy's oldest son, who is interested in photography and had done some excellent wedding photos recently for his friends, using Layne's high-end camera. Layne has been helping him package the photos into a professional-looking portfolio and a wedding album for the newlyweds. This trip was to have high-quality prints made for the album. After the bus trip into town, we walked a few blocks searching for the photography shop, no easy task since, as you recall, there are no street addresses here. But with a phone call by Felipe (in Spanish, of course), we soon located the store and he and Layne gave the instructions for the print sizes. 
Layne and Felipe order prints
The finished product is terrific and today Felipe is delivering the album to his friends. It's been a very satisfying process for Layne and me to help guide this young man in developing his talent in photography. We hope this is the start of a productive and lucrative vocation for Felipe and we're very proud of his hard work.