Hiking Palmares, Costa Rica

Eroca, Marcial, Seidy and Layne

Here it is almost time for another Sunday outing for the Santa Eulalia gang and I have yet to share last weekend's day trip with you. Compared to some of our strenuous excursions, this one was more a sightseeing trip than a hike. As unofficial leader of our hiking club (or as he likes to call it, "a drinking club with a hiking problem"), Marcial thought a bus trip up to Palmares to explore downtown might be fun. With an eye to the early Sunday bus schedule, we got our exercise by hurriedly huffing up the long hill to the Palmares intersection, or cruce, where we just made the 7:15 a.m. bus. The thirty-minute trip took us up and over the Aquacate mountain range that separates Atenas from Palmares and curved through some charming barrios, twisting along hillsides of coffee and sugarcane plantations and verdant tropical jungle. Topping the ridge we looked out over the picturesque valley of Palmares, a town that boasts perhaps the biggest two-week fiesta grande in the country. Beginning in mid-January each year, the small town is transformed into party-central with a big tope or horse parade, rodeos, dancing, concerts and fireworks. Cabelleros and their finest mounts come from all over Costa Rica to ride through the streets showing off their fancy gaits and colorful costumes.

Toros a la Tica, the Costa Rican-style of bullfighting, is one of the highlights. Unlike the Spanish tradition, these bullfights involve hundreds of Ticos who become bullfighters-for-a-day, jumping into the ring to taunt the bull but not to kill him. All it takes is a lot of nerve and a willingness to test fate by joining the rather comical event.

Our day in Palmares was less exciting than a bullfight but fun nevertheless as we wandered through the Parque Central where large iguanas lounge in the trees and reddish-brown squirrels vie with pigeons for treats left by local citizens. Like most Latin countries, the park is adjacent to the Catholic Church, which was just ending Sunday morning mass when we arrived. 

The capricious fountain 

Eroca, the juggling gringa

As the church emptied out, we were amused to watch one hapless gentleman stroll across the plaza and get showered by the fountain as it turned on in a seemingly random schedule. In another entertaining moment, Eroca showed off her juggling skills to the surprise of a Tico juggler who was suitably impressed by the bold gringa.

A squirrel enjoys a snack

Lazy iguana taking the sun

The church itself made an imposing photogenic subject for Eroca, Seidy and me. Seidy is a budding photographer taking photo lessons from Stephen, who taught photography back in the US. Although Stephen and Bonnie were not with us on this outing, having gone up to Monteverde for the weekend, Seidy was dutifully working the camera in anticipation of her Monday class. 

Seidy doing her "homework"

Eroca tries to capture stained glass

Inside the grand church

According to Marcial, each stone of the large building had been hand-hewn and lovingly installed to construct the church. Inside we photographers gazed at the vivid stained glass windows and tried to capture the dramatic colors in our cameras.

From there we ambled over to the Central Market for a coffee and some tamales, then headed out for a short exploration of the local community, enjoying beautiful flowers, lovely homes and the activities on the soccer field along the way. 

One of many nice homes

Plantain in a front yard

Community soccer field is always busy

But we soon had to mosey back to the bus stop for our return trip to Atenas and the afternoon potluck by the pool at Bonnie and Stephen's who had by then returned from their weekend trip.

Just another wonderful day in the life of pensionados, enjoying Pura Vida in Costa Rica!

  

Hasta Luego, Texas! Hola, Costa Rica!

All together now: Welcome home, Kat and Layne!

Muchas gracias, estimados lectores! (Thank you very much, dear readers.) It is indeed good to be back in Costa Rica. Despite this being the height of the rainy season, the sun is shining for us today as if in greeting. The palm fronds are waving hello and the cattle across the valley are faintly lowing, welcoming us back to our little Santa Eulalia paradise.

This year has found us out of Costa Rica almost as much as we've been in the country. First, there was the three-and-a-half month sojourn to our old home in Northern California to make repairs, renovations and refinance; then, almost as soon as we returned to Costa Rica I learned that my mom in Texas was sick and needed my help. So off I went for a five-week trip to nurse her back to health and help with projects around her house. Layne joined me for the last two weeks and we returned just last night.

Darrelynn, Tom and Yours Truly

Although most of the trip was devoted to caring for my mom, there was still time for a short weekend trip to visit old friends outside of Austin and San Antonio. My dear friend Darrelynn from high school has recently married a delightful gentleman named Tom and the two of them now live in his lovely home overlooking Horseshoe Bay, filled to overflowing with collectibles, artwork, unusual knickknacks and other beautiful furnishings. Layne and I spent a pleasant afternoon with them talking over old times and learning about Tom's fascinating career fighting fires in Kuwait and elsewhere alongside the likes of Red Adair, the legendary Texas oil well firefighter.

Philisse, Anastasia & Agatha
(Aurora was taking her "beauty sleep")

Philisse and Layne at the Blue Star

After a drive down to San Antonio we met the next morning with Philisse, an old San Francisco friend who has transplanted to Texas to be near her daughter Agatha and granddaughters Anastasia and Aurora. Layne and I have known Agatha since she was scarcely a year old, so seeing her with her young family is truly a joy. 

Soon with Philisse and Layne in the "pilot car" and me trailing in our rental car, the three of us took off for brunch at the Blue Star Brewing Company Restaurant, located next to the meandering San Antonio River, a trip through freeway traffic that turned into a major expedition with lengthy detours off Interstate 10 as we made our way to the Brewing Company. Ironically, we later learned an overturned beer truck was to blame for our delay!

A young caballero

My stay in Texas overlapped with Costa Rica's Independence Day on September 15th, a date celebrated along with other Central American countries for their joint declaration of freedom from Spain in 1821. With San Angelo's large Latino community, there were plenty of celebrations to attend, from the dances and food fair at the Paseo de Santa Angela to a horseback riding and roping demonstration by Mexican caballeros on the big parade grounds of Fort Concho. Although only a small crowd was in attendance, the efforts by the riders and their horses were well appreciated, particularly those of the smallest young cowboy and his pony.

Fort Concho itself is an interesting attraction in this West Texas town, a national historic landmark noted as the best-preserved 1880's fort in the United States, with most of the former U.S. Army post and some twenty-three original or restored fort structures still standing. (See my blog post on Fort Concho history here.)

In her younger days my mom was an active volunteer at the Fort, working in archive preservation and serving as an informed docent. She still spends many a Sunday afternoon greeting visitors in Officer's Quarters #1 and sharing her vast knowledge of the Fort's history, legends and ghost stories. One of the most entertaining and nostalgic evenings Mother, Layne and I spent while we were there was watching an old video that I made some years ago of Christmas at Old Fort Concho, a fabulous three-day living history event that featured Indian dances, military drills, rowdy cowboys on horseback, campfire poetry readings, ladies-of-the-night as well as laundresses and other more "respectable" women working their crafts in dozens of tents set up across the parade grounds. The finale was a grand entrance by the Fort commander Colonel Grierson and his family in their horse-drawn buggy coming to attend a Christmas party. Sadly, these festivities have been discontinued and Christmas at Old Fort Concho now consists only of a more commercial event with vendors selling their wares in some of the buildings. But in the video my mom was a fetching sight in her stunning turquoise taffeta and lace officer's wife dress, dancing the Virginia Reel along with other officers and their wives as they enacted a typical Christmas celebration in the 1870's and 1880's.

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