Going to the Dogs!

The big news around here today is named Winston, or Winnie for short, and he's a Chocolate Lab mix puppy with amazing golden eyes. I saw him at the feria today, offered for adoption by the Animales Abandonadas, a local foundation that works with private foster homes. They called him Tomi but we decided he needed a more distinguished name. (Plus, Layne happens to be reading a book on Winston Churchill at the moment. Thus, the name.)

Introducing Winston 

Winne's only about three months old and has apparently been on the street for a while as he is pretty thin. But for a little guy who has had such a tough start in life, he's very calm and sweet; he just looks up at you shyly and wags his tail hoping for a kind word or pat on the head. Layne and I are only fostering him for now since we have plans to spend a couple of months in the U.S. later this year but we will give him a loving home and some much-needed nourishment while we find him a permanent home. If you've ever thought about getting a dog and if you know the joys of owning a Lab, which are wonderful loving and loyal dogs, please consider adopting Winnie.

Besides trips to the States, Layne and I also feel we should not adopt a dog permanently right now because we are away from home so much, both on local outings with our Santa Eulalia friends as well as trips around Costa Rica exploring the country in my role as a travel writer. Although a dog could certainly join us for our local hikes, it's not so easy to bring one along on our trips to the beach. Most hotels are not very welcoming of pets.

Rancho Coral gardens

As it happens, however, we were at a pet-friendly hotel only last weekend, charming Rancho Coral in Esterillos Oeste, on an outing with our friends Marcial and Seidy and Chris and Sue. But the two-hour bus trip would not have been so pet-friendly; indeed, getting there would have meant renting a car, another drawback for us in dog-ownership. Once we arrived at the beachfront motel owned by Marcial and Seidy's long-time friends, Wilburth and Eva, it was wall-to-wall dogs -- well, maybe only six or eight -- a few cats and lots of chickens as well. So for pet lovers, Rancho Coral is the place to go for a warm animal welcome.

It's a great place for humans as well, especially humans who love playing in the ocean, surfing the waves or just walking on a long empty beach. Rancho Coral is just a few steps from the high-tide mark, its lush gardens strung with hammocks perfect for lazing away an hour or two meditating on the endless rolling surf. Sue and Layne and I took good advantage of those comfortable swinging sofas to enjoy the balmy weather and light breezes. Unfortunately, Sue warned me a moment too late to avoid flipping over backwards onto the sandy ground as I tried to seat myself in my hammock. Nothing was hurt but my pride.

Marcial, Chris, Sue, Seidy and Layne

Later in the afternoon, at the insistence of our strong-minded exercise coach Marcial, we all took off for a long walk down the beach toward the tide pools formed by ancient lava flow and adorned by a fascinating sculpture of a mermaid perched on a concrete base, known as La Sirena or The Siren. With the tide out, she reigns supreme on her dry pedestal and when the tide comes in, she rises above the waters to serve as a sentinel offshore. Taking a rest, we watched some young men kicking a soccer ball around on the shore as the sun began to set in the western skies.

Heading out for a beach stroll

La Sirena

La Sirena and tide pools at low tide

Seidy, looking like a tropical princess 

That evening, we enjoyed a wonderful meal at the hotel prepared by Tomas, one of the family members who run Rancho Coral. Most of us chose grilled snook, with its firm, white flesh, accompanied by vegetables,

A great fish dinner!

rice and tasty little mussels alongside two excellent sauces, one spicy, the other a Thai peanut flavor. We all raved!

It was a short weekend for most everyone, as they all caught the Sunday afternoon bus back to Atenas. But Layne and I decided to hang out one more night to give me my beach "fix." If the weather weren't quite so hot and humid ocean-side, I'd surely choose to live there!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570 

  

Paddle-boarding With Crocodiles on the River Baru

On the long, hot bus ride back from Dominical last Friday, I felt a little like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz, tapping her heels together, closing her eyes and chanting: "There's no place like home. There's no place like home." Although I love the beach life at this southern zone surfer's paradise, the climate was too hot for comfort this trip. As we left Dominical in our non-air conditioned (but otherwise comfortable) bus, the digital display above the front window said 38 ºC or about 100 ºF. Holy Hotcakes! That's West Texas weather! By the time we reached Atenas four hours later and two thousand feet higher in elevation, the temperature had dropped to 27 ºC or 80 ºF. No wonder Atenas is touted as having "the best climate in the world!"

 

Villas Rio Mar gardens

Dominical continues to lure us, nevertheless, because of its laid-back, low-key lifestyle and of course, our favorite hotel, Villas Rio Mar, where we enjoy comfort, good service and great food. The two sea bass dinners I had - one with garlic sauce, the other in almond sauce - were just outstanding.

Without a car for most of our trip (we rented one for the last day), Layne and I got in a short hike each day as we walked from the hotel to the beach area and back. Strolling along the beachfront road is a feast for the eyes, as you pass one vender stall after another filled with colorful beach towels, sundresses, shorts, tee shirts, bikinis, jewelry and handcrafts. We stopped at one lady's booth for a glass of delicious freshly squeezed orange juice. As you can see from her smile, Ticos are not shy about photographs.

On our trek back to the hotel, we looked out at the River Baru and noticed three people standing up paddling along on surfboards, apparently unconcerned about the signs warning of crocodiles in the river. Let's just hope they kept their balance as a dip in those waters might invite some unwelcome company. 

On the same hike Layne glanced across the river to the jungle beyond and suddenly stopped in amazement. Clearly visible through the trees was a very large airplane. How it got there we have no idea, although we later learned that it serves as a restaurant and sits alongside the road to San Isidro de General, so perhaps they managed to tow it into place. But the sight sure surprised us.

 The third and last night of our trip we joined dozens of locals on the beach to watch the sunset and meditate on the beauty and awesome power of the ocean. Layne and I had abundant opportunities to experience that power in our daily beachside trips, watching fearless surfers conquer 8- to 10-foot waves that then crashed mightily into us as we jumped breakers in knee-deep water. With the strong rip tides and undertow at Dominical, one must have great respect for the ocean and never turn your back on the rolling surf. A couple of big ones washed over us and had us scrambling to regain our footing before the next one hit.

As the sun's rays disappeared behind distant clouds, Layne and I walked over to our other favorite restaurant, Tortilla Flats, for dinner. While we were enjoying our meal, a deaf mute young Tico approached our table with a card explaining that he could make a number of different items using a palm frond. Our waiter confirmed that he did very good work and so we chose a basket. One can never have too many baskets, right? 

Watching the young fellow at work was amazing as he quickly but carefully wove the long green leaves into a lovely container. He only charged 3000 colones or about $6 but I gave him 5000 and considered it a bargain at that. 

As it dries, it will harden

Our waiter confided to me that the man gets depressed at times because of his disability, but he has been encouraged by his success in visiting local restaurants and crafting handmade artwork on the spot. We wish him well.

So it was good to be back in Atenas after our fun excursion to the beach. We fantasize renting a beach cottage in Dominicalito, an even smaller village just south of Dominical, and sharing our time between Atenas with its perfect climate and great friends and the Dominical area with its seductive beach ambiance. Pura Vida!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570 

  

Dominical Dreamin' - Part I

"Downtown" Dominical

From our first stop at Playa Hermosa to our last day out at Marino Ballena, our trip this week to Dominical to celebrate Layne's birthday could hardly have been better. If a funky little surfer paradise is what you're looking for, Dominical is the place to go. What a step backwards to a hippie-style laid-back beach lifestyle. I fell in love with it!

After a predictable drama with the rental car (why is insurance so complicated here?!), we drove off Monday morning with our friends Marc and Eroca for a four-day holiday of sun and sand. Marc had made his semi-famous tuna sandwiches so when lunchtime came we pulled off at Playa Hermosa. This quiet beach serves as the backdrop for one of the scenes in Layne's novel, Moral Turpitude, so we thought we should check it out in person. The black sand beach framing a turquoise ocean was the ideal beginning to our adventure.

Marc and Layne at Playa Hermosa

Eroca waves from the shore

Three hours later we approached Dominical. Immediately upon turning off the nice paved highway, we were hurled back in time to a quaint Tico village with a rocky dirt road for a main street and barefoot children riding bikes in the middle of the road. Surf shops, beachwear stores, a couple of real estate offices, a few restaurants and a lone yoga studio made up the whole of downtown. "Main street" consists of rows of wooden stalls where beach towels, pareu skirts, colorful dresses, jewelry and other crafts are sold.

Our hotel, Villas Rio Mar, was a real find: an eco-lodge nestled in the jungles along the River Baru, where signs warn of crocodiles. We kept a wary eye out but never saw one of the hungry reptiles, although locals told us dogs are regularly lost to the beasts. 

A bountiful buffet

The hotel seemed safe enough, however, each secluded casita a haven of privacy and comfort surrounded by tropical gardens.  The staff was friendly and helpful, the rooms were clean and well appointed and food in the restaurant was excellent. In fact, the breakfast buffet, which is included in the room price, was the best Layne and I have had and we've sampled quite a few now. Fresh fruit, gallo pinto (the national dish of savory rice and beans), scrambled eggs, sausage links, hash browns, pancakes, French toast, coffee, juice -- all of it delicious.

Our open-air living room

This first day being Layne's actual birthday, we decided to spend the afternoon lounging by the pool with margaritas for refreshment. When our poolside waiter learned it was Layne's cumpleaños, the birthday boy got a free drink. 

After an idyllic couple of hours swimming and relaxing, we cleaned up for the birthday dinner, Eroca's treat. Following this festive repast, we hung out at the pool table then retired for our next full day of fun.

Marc, the Shark

After a leisurely breakfast we were off to the beach to frolic in the waves and take in the scenery. As the "high season" had not yet started, we found the playa all but deserted, with just a few beach walkers and locals wandering around. Dominical's oceanfront is a long wide expanse of sand littered with a few large pieces of driftwood, one of which made a good "sofa" for us to sit on. Eroca and I headed for the water -- deep blue and luxuriously warm. The waves were just right for giddy jumping to avoid a face full of salt water and occasionally big enough to require diving beneath the curl as it broke in front of us. We laughed our heads off.

Eroca shows off her new dress

Soon enough Eroca and I, along with Marc, decided to wander down the road for some shopping. Only about 100 yards away was at an open-air store run by a delightfully friendly Tico who told us his name was Eddie. "You know, like Eddie Murphy!" he said, laughing. The brightly colored dresses hanging in front of the shops were hard to resist, at least for Eroca. Eddie's wife makes all the clothing and most of the jewelry, some of which she designs from coconut shell cut into star shapes or heart shapes, painted and bejeweled. Eroca found a lovely green embroidered dress with earrings to match. I chose a new beach towel and a colorful backpack with room for all my "stuff," which I'd been searching for. When Eddie's wife showed us the clever pareu skirt clips she makes from coconut shell and which make ten different ways to use the skirt, we both had to have one.

Eroca and Marc took off to meander through town and perhaps find something for lunch while Layne and I stayed behind to watch our things. Petty theft continues to be a problem in Costa Rica, particularly around tourist towns like Dominical, although this beach was so deserted I was hardly concerned. We watched as surfers began to paddle out and dogs with their owners romped on the sand. This pair of German Shepherds tossed a stick around and greeted beachgoers as they awaited the return of their surfer owner.

Finally, the surfer  has returned

Sesame Tuna - Yum!

Instead of going out for dinner that night we enjoyed another splendid meal at Villas Rio Mar. The dinner special was irresistible: Caesar Salad, Sesame Tuna over steamed vegetables alongside creamy mashed potatoes and Peach Melba for dessert -- all for $16. We agreed it was an outstanding meal. Afterwards we retired to our patio "living room" for wine and some jovial conversation.

The next day was off to the golf course for Layne and me. Watch for that upcoming report!

(Click on photos to enlarge.)

Oceans of Fun!

Papaya con leche in Playa Jaco

Kai as "Tiger Woods"

Just coming up for air after a couple of very busy weeks -- preparing for the Atenas Charity Chili Cook-off, celebrating our 2nd place victory afterwards then quickly getting final plans in place for a visit from my son Damian and grandson Kai coming in from San Francisco. And of course, the week of their trip was hectic enough with outings to Playa Jaco, Sámara and Hacienda Pinilla in Guanacaste -- much of it in search of "the perfect wave" for Damian's surfing fun. We did find some good waves here and there but never quite as robust as he had hoped. Still it was a very good visit with lots of fun times playing Wii games, from bowling to tennis to Tiger Woods' golf. Like many teenagers, Kai is virtually an expert at most electronic games of skill and he took particular delight in "whuppin'" his grandma. But I didn't mind because it was such a joy to have them around. Kai is still the wonderful sweet child he has always been, loving to us and courteous to all. He even struck up a good friendship with our landlords' son Isaac next door, spending several hours playing soccer with him.

David, Damian, Marc and Eroca

Our first evening's entertainment was a big outdoor dinner party at Marcial and Saedi's house (I've been mis-spelling Saedi's name all this time!). The potluck food was great and Grandpa Layne, followed by the talented Daniel, serenaded the group on guitar. the next day we headed out for the Guanacaste beaches, taking the small Puntareñas - Playa Naranjo ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya, enjoying watching the seagulls flitting around the upper deck to catch crumbs thrown by passengers. Then we drove up the Nicoya Peninsula and across to beautiful Playa Sámara, where we stayed at a comfortable hotel with spectacular views, the Apartotel Mirador de Sámara. The Mirador is situated high up on a hillside and our spacious two-bedroom apartment faced the ocean, providing us some stunning sunset views from our balcony that afternoon. Although the Mirador is not as fancy as some places we have stayed, such as Hacienda Pinilla, it was a good value for the money and would really be an excellent choice for a longer-term stay. In fact, we met two young women from Poland who had stayed there a week earlier in their travels and had now returned for a three-week stint. That's long enough to stock up the kitchen and save money on meals by cooking in the apartment.

Mirador de Samara

Layne and I took a romantic sunset stroll that afternoon along the sweeping half-moon Playa Sámara since it was my birthday, then we all headed out for a festive birthday dinner: a really delicious pizza and red wine. Because we liked the small beach town feel of Sámara, with street vendors selling t-shirts, sundresses and wooden knickknacks and a delightful organic restaurant nearby, Layne and I are considering a return visit for a few nights at the Mirador de Sámara to allow more time to explore the beach and local area.

Birthday dinner

Then it was off to Hacienda Pinilla where we had high hopes for good waves since the Avellanes Beach in front of the elegant Beach Club has a reputation as "Little Hawai'i" and nearby Langosta Beach is likewise well known for surfing. Alas, it was not to be. Not that Damian didn't get in some pretty good surfing but with no Pacific "swell," the waves never got very big. With some lessons from his dad, Kai enjoyed boogie boarding on the smaller waves. Although we had been given a good discount on our suite, the food prices hit our pocketbooks pretty hard so after a couple of days, we were ready to head home for some of my own good cooking.

Nerf-ball in the pool 

Grandpa Layne at the Beach Club

Kai catches a wave!

The rest of the week seemed to whiz by as Damian made a day trip down to Jaco and Playa Hermosa and Kai played with his new friend next door. Before we knew it, the time had come to deliver them back to the airport and turn in the ridiculously overpriced and incredibly small Suzuki Jimmy to Payless Car Rental in Alajuela. A word to the wise: never rent from these guys because the hidden cost is in their daily insurance rate, which was easily twice what most places charge.

As any mother (or grandmother) knows, seeing your child is always a joy and getting to spend these fun days with our family was indeed a blessing which we will long remember and forever treasure. 

Mojitos and Mujeres at a Jaco Bar

May 7, 2010

(Click on photos to enlarge)

         With only a few days remaining here in Costa Rica, we managed a quick trip to the beach this week. During our three-month “trial run” of life in CR, we have done very little in typical tourist activities, such as visiting museums, national parks or beaches. Only when friends from the U.S. were here in April did we venture out to Finca Luna Nueva Lodge and later that week to Jaco Beach. But I do love the ocean, the sunshine, playing in the waves, so with some creative thinking, we made our way to Jaco.

         Since we had to go one final time into San Jose to pick up our forwarded mail at the Association of Residents of Costa Rica (ARCR), Layne suggested that we could hop on the San Jose bus to Jaco. Banking on my travel writer credentials, I quickly emailed our favorite Jaco hotel asking about free rooms and sure enough, the manager offered us a complimentary room and breakfast for the next night.

         So on Wednesday, after an hour-long ride into San Jose and a two-block walk to the ARCR office, we took a taxi to the main bus terminal, known as the Coca-Cola station for historical reasons no longer apparent. There is no Coca-Cola bottling company there these days, just a big bustling station with numerous slots for the buses coming and going. Arriving just after 9 a.m. we were dismayed to learn that the Jaco bus had departed only moments before and the next one was not until 11 a.m. A two-hour wait! Enterprising taxi drivers immediately offered us rides but at $90 for the trip, that was not an option. But the Orotina bus was about to leave and since that town is only a short distance from Jaco, we thought we could ride that far and then taxi the rest of the way. Wrong! When we arrived in Orotina we found that taxi ride was still too expensive. Hauling our bags along behind us, we wandered around the central park and soon learned there was a bus about to leave for Jaco, so with only minutes to spare, we jumped onboard.

         Does the term “local” mean anything to you? This bus took an hour and a half to make a 30-mile trip! It stopped for every waving hand along the road, but eventually we arrived on the busy main drag and made our way to the Hotel Cocal and Casino, an historic property located right on Playa Jaco. My first trip to Hotel Cocal was in 2006 when I came to Costa Rica for a dental implant. My darling son Damian insisted on coming along to look after me following the dental surgery until Layne’s arrival a few days later. I was touched by his concern but soon realized that he also had an ulterior motive when we headed straight to Jaco, the best surfing beach in Costa Rica, for my recuperation and his favorite activity! He generously paid for a beachfront room, however, and entertained me with his daily surfing runs while I sucked down Papaya con Leche (a sort of papaya milkshake) to pamper my tender mouth.

         Each time Layne and I have stayed at the Hotel Cocal, we have ended up having a rollicking good time at the poolside bar where we always seem to meet interesting people and enjoy stimulating conversations while we sip exotic cocktails. Plus, with prostitution legal here in Costa Rica, there are usually extremely beautiful “working girls” present as well. Their coquettish advances to male guests can make for amusing visuals, as they try to convey their passions through flashing dark eyes beneath thick lashes or a pink tongue roaming over pouty lips.

         This trip was no exception. After an afternoon on the beach, frolicking in the incredibly warm ocean waters, fighting the current and jumping the waves, then relaxing in the Hotel Cocal’s beachside lounge chairs, Layne and I showered and headed for the bar. Since this is the rainy season, there were few guests around. Plus, Hotel Cocal is in the midst of a major renovation with workers hammering, welding, pouring concrete and resurfacing the swimming pools. Still, the small poolside bar was open with only a couple of customers perched on stools, including one stunning woman in a sexy black sweater notable for the crescent- shaped cutouts on the sides of her full breasts. Her name was Erica and she and I, along with the lovely Nicaraguan bartender Claudia, chatted some in Spanish. Claudia even complimented me on my budding language skills, which seemed somewhat enhanced by the Mojitos I was drinking.

         We were soon joined by a jovial fifty-something Gringo with a ruddy, sun-tanned face and short blond hair named Marc. “That’s Marc with a C,” he informed us. With tongue-in-cheek humor, he sat down by Erica and introduced her as his “wife.” Clearly, they were… uh, previously acquainted, shall we say. His sardonic style got big laughs from all of us and a roll of her pretty eyes from Erica. In the ensuing conversation, we learned that Marc had spent many years working as an aeronautical engineer for NASA at the Kennedy Space Center in Cape Canaveral, Florida, including during the dramatic days of Apollo 13. We inferred that he has since retired from that profession and had been working to help out at his brother’s company. Three weeks before, Marc had tired of the carping of his mid-manager supervisor and had essentially said: Take this job and shove it! He bought a one-way ticket to San Jose, Costa Rica, and didn’t seem to know - or care - when he might go back.

         Marc had just come from dinner and he raved at length about the Peppercorn Filet Mignon served in the hotel restaurant. Now Layne and I have not been overly impressed with local beef here in Costa Rica. Often it is less flavorful and tender than the well-marbled free-range meat we get in California, but Layne determined to try it. When we went in for our dinner a little later, we had to agree: That steak was fantastic! Fork tender with a peppery sauce that really rocked. Since I tend more to seafood when I can get it fresh, I chose the Blackened Mahi-mahi and it was delicious as well. Accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes, sautéed veggies, fresh warm bread and a glass of red wine, we were satiated. As we sipped the last of our wine and looked out at the glowing tropical sunset, we once again realized just how very lucky we are. Pura Vida, indeed!