Cold Showers and CAT scans

Janis and Penny, long ago

A month with no blog posts. A month of death and drama, stress and strain, worry and weariness with a little Costa Rican comedy thrown in for good measure. A few days after my last post here, I traveled to Texas to be with my mother as we faced the imminent passing of my older sister from pancreatic cancer. And indeed, only three days after I arrived, we received word that Janis had died peacefully in her sleep. A tragic loss for my mom but a blessing for my sister as she had suffered greatly in her final days and weeks.

Then began the difficult but important task of helping my mom update all the papers for her estate: calling insurance companies, revising her Will and powers of attorney and all the other minutiae necessitated by a change in family structure, even while in bereavement. Still, the days ticked away and Mother and I managed to have some good times together, shopping for things I wanted to bring back to Costa Rica, watching and discussing the unfolding drama in Egypt on television and feasting on local Tex-Mex, Miss Hattie's Cafe gourmet food and barbeque. Especially the delicious ribs and brisket at our favorite place, Old Time Pit Barbeque. But in still another distressing blow to my mom’s emotions, Old Time Pit burned down a few days after I returned to Costa Rica. As Mother and I said in commiseration to one another, "When it rains, it pours."

Miss Hattie's dining room

And for me, it just kept pouring. Although I had planned to stay a few more days in Texas, on Monday the 28th while on a phone call with Layne here in Costa Rica, I learned that he had just experienced a “health event,” a sudden blurring of vision in both eyes that cleared soon after, an indication of a possible mini-stroke.

It was just December when Layne was first diagnosed with elevated blood pressure in a routine visit to Linea Vital, the local private medical group we joined in order to avoid the sometimes lengthy waits for service through the nationalized health plan known as CAJA. CAJA is great for emergencies and major medical needs but for routine visits, Linea Vital is the choice of many Ticos and Gringos here in Atenas. They have English-speaking doctors on duty 24/7 and an ambulance service available at all times. For a “premium” membership, we pay $65 per month for both of us, which includes free doctor’s visits, house calls, annual physicals and many other services.

As Layne described his scary symptoms to me, I told him to call Linea Vital immediately for an ambulance and get in to see a doctor right away, even as I was making reservations to leave for Costa Rica that very afternoon. But when Layne called Linea Vital, he was told that they had a number of patients waiting and that it would be a couple of hours before he could see a doctor. As we have since learned, what Layne didn’t say was that he was a “member.” Members get priority and had he said that magic word, service would have been prompt.

CIMA Hospital

As it was, he called our wonderful landlords who arranged for a Cruz Roja (Red Cross) ambulance (at no charge!) which took him to Linea Vital where, once they realized he was a member, he was seen without delay. In follow-up visits since then, he was given an EKG (also at no charge), which seemed basically normal and a referral for a brain scan at CIMA, a highly respected and high-tech hospital in San Jose. He just underwent that CT scan today at the modest cost of about $440. We fully expect those results to be negative as his doctor is considering other less serious possibilities as well, but it will be reassuring to know that he did not have a stroke.

Curbs going in on Calle Capre Verde 

Meanwhile, back at the rancho, we were having water problems. We had been warned that water pressure might drop during the dry season but in our kitchen the tap had slowed to a trickle. In part we had assumed this was due to roadwork being done on our dirt lane, Calle Capre Verde, in preparation for paving; but since we had adequate pressure in the lavatory and shower, we wondered if there might be a blockage in the line to the kitchen sink. Then, on Saturday morning, all the water stopped. Zero, zip, nada. And as luck would have it, we had just moments before put on a load of wash. Our clothes were now sitting in about 4 inches of water and laundry soap. I had just gone for a walk and needed a shower and there were dishes in the sink from breakfast! What the heck happened to Pura Vida?

In a call to our landlady Odie, we learned that much of Atenas was without water due to underground work being done near Coopeatenas grocery up the road. She thought it would be back on by 6 o’clock, she said, and of course, there was un-potable water available up at the rancho and a shower there as well, albeit with only cold water. Brrrr! Since 6 o’clock didn’t seem so far away, we waited. And waited. Well, perhaps she meant 6 o’clock in the morning.

When Sunday morning came, our hopes were dashed as still nothing was coming from the dry taps. And now the rancho wasn’t even available because Odie had the young students in her Spanish Immersion School meeting there for a lecture and party on the first day of their 10-day study trip.

By Monday, we were becoming desperate, both for clean plates as well as clean hair. We lugged a tray full of dishes up to the rancho and washed them in the sink in the barbeque area, then hauled them back down to the apartment. Fearing the worst for our poor clothes still sitting in soapy water, Layne and I carted containers of water from the rancho down to the laundry room and set the machine to finish the wash cycle. With no water for the rinse, however, and with Layne under doctor’s orders to minimize his exercise, it was up to me to haul the wet clothes up to the rancho sink for hand-rinsing, then back down to the washer once again for a final spin before hanging them on the line. By the time I finished I was exhausted and ready to face that cold shower, a necessity since Layne had his medical appointment the next day.

Layne entering the hi-tech scanner

So here it is Tuesday and our housekeeper somehow worked a miracle this morning and managed to clean our house, apparently schlepping water back and forth from the rancho while we were at CIMA for the brain scan. What an angel she is! This experience has given me a whole new appreciation of the kind of labor-intensive lives most people in developing countries endure. And now, late in the day on Tuesday, it appears that the water is beginning to flow once again. The lesson here? Count your blessings, Gringos, and never take running water for granted! 

Too Busy to Be Bored

So often we are asked by friends in the United States, “How do you spend your time there in Costa Rica? What do you do? Aren’t you bored?”

For those of you accustomed to busy lives of commuting, shopping, running errands, paying bills and the rest of the minutiae of life with a full-time job and family responsibilities, the thought of retiring to a tropical land may seem to promise as much boredom as fulfillment, a case of too much time on your hands. After the “new” wears off of basking in sunshine, bird- and monkey-watching, admiring exotic flora, checking out museums and national parks, doesn’t one get a little jaded by it all? The answer really depends on the individual and you can stay as busy here or idle as you choose. Like anywhere, life in Costa Rica is what you make of it.

On a recent outing with friends to a beautiful Gulf of Nicoya beach, I listened as the women discussed their lives as expat retirees.

“It’s amazing just how easily I have adjusted to retirement,” one friend commented. “I never thought I would. I was a complete workaholic, the first one at work, the last to go home. Usually I was still there when the maintenance staff came around.”

“Yes, me, too,” another woman said. “Until we got here, retiring was the last thing I wanted to do. I loved my job but I love going to the beach more!” We all laughed as we sat soaking in the sun and gazing out at the picturesque view.

As they talked, I found myself quietly disagreeing as they proclaimed their contentment with relaxing in a hammock and reading a good book. Like them, I never imagined actually “retiring.” After all, my elderly mother still has a paying part-time job as well as numerous volunteer duties in her West Texas town. With a role model like that, I always thought I would be working well past normal retirement age. But when the economic downturn hit and I was laid off like so many other Baby Boomer-age North Americans with no job prospects in sight, Layne and I could read the tea leaves: we would soon face a financial shortfall each month unless we changed our lifestyle pretty significantly.

Moving to Costa Rica has given us that affordable lifestyle but it is anything but boring. Somehow we stay remarkably busy. For one thing, having no car means we do much more walking than we ever did in the States. Walking takes time so, for instance, a recent trip into town for haircuts took up most of the morning and, by the way, cost only $12 for both of us. Every Friday we make the thirty-minute hike to the feria to pick up a week’s worth of fresh veggies, fruits, chicken or chiccarones, those tasty fried pork pieces so popular here. While strolling through the farmers’ market, we stop to chat with friends, examine handmade jewelry or weavings offered by a Guatemalan senora and consider which of the organic breads from Tom’s Bakery to take home. Perhaps we grab a delicious mocha fria from the Balcon Café nearby or stop in at Kay’s Gringo Postre for breakfast. There always seem to be errands to run. Finally, with our bags full, we grab a taxi and for about $3.00 arrive back at our apartment ready for a few laps in the pool.

Then we go to “work.” As Layne toils diligently at his computer writing his first novel, I often start work on my column for http://TheCostaRicaNews.com, mentioned in my last post here. It has encouraged me to research retirement issues and offers the chance to pass that information on to others who might benefit from relocating here. Since I try to keep my skills up as a travel writer, Costa Rica offers abundant choices for colorful and interesting story ideas. Then when time allows, I write a post for this blog.

Here in Atenas, a relatively small town, I have taken classes in yoga, Zumba, Pilates and Latin dance. In addition, there are at least two well-equipped gyms, training in Tae Bo, Tai Chi and karate, plus art classes and, of course, several Spanish language schools are located here. We have art shows, used book sales, photo exhibitions, live music events and karaoke. In San Jose and Alajuela are even more of these kinds of activities, including live theater, hot nightlife and modern shopping malls. Head for any of the stunning beaches for surfing, beach-combing or deep-sea fishing. Rather than being bored, it often seems there are not enough hours in the day.

Volunteer opportunities abound in Costa Rica, from helping in local schools with English classes to working with animal spay and neuter shelters. Volunteer organizations focus on reforestation, rain forest preservation, turtle conservation, environmental integrity, organic farming techniques and dozens of other valuable programs. I even spent a few weeks as a volunteer dance instructor, working with young girls in ballet class. What fun that was! Anyone with some special skill or activity that they are willing to share is appreciated here and volunteering can be an extremely satisfying and enjoyable way to spend some time.

The Pura Vida lifestyle is a laid-back one; no one hurries much -- that is, until they get behind the wheel of a car! Tico drivers are notorious speeders and reckless passers, and traffic laws are not uniformly enforced. Still, other than in the metropolis of San Jose or other large cities, most people enjoy a slower pace of life, a fact that accounts in part for the contentment quotient of Ticos. According to Wikipedia’s “Happy Planet Index” for 2009, Costa Rica ranked #1 out of 143 countries. In survey after survey, this country has scored at the highest levels of having a happy population. No wonder Layne and I love it here and believe me, we are anything but bored!

Lusty Iguana Love!

The old saying “Time flies when you’re having fun” sure seems to fit our lives here. Or at least that’s the excuse I’ll give for my limited posts of late. The days seem to whiz by, full of big and little adventures. Take this morning’s walk, for instance. As we strolled along a side street of modest Tico houses, just ahead of us I saw a large crested iguana apparently basking in the sunlight on a concrete driveway. We had stopped so I could snap a photo when I noticed another smaller iguana in the culvert beside the driveway looking up at him. Quietly we moved to the other side of the street so as not to disturb them. As we stood watching, we noticed the big guy exhibiting unusual behavior: bobbing his head and seeming to preen himself. Suddenly we got it! It was “iguana love” in action. His movements were clearly directed at his lady friend below, who eyed him adoringly, if such an emotion can be attributed to iguanas. I started to take a video of their activities but a Tico on a bicycle rode by and scared them into the gutter beneath the drive.

 

Another reason I’ve been blogging less is that much of my writing time and energy has been devoted to a weekly column on retirement in Costa Rica which I started doing for an English-language website, http://TheCostaRicaNews.com. Although unpaid, the project does provide me with motivation to research some of the issues facing expats who are considering relocating here. In addition, I am compiling information for seminars Layne and I hope to offer next summer when we are in the United States. At least we plan to do a few “pilot project” versions of workshops on “Retiring in Costa Rica on Social Security,” which, of course, is what we ourselves have done. If you or someone you know might be interested in coming to a seminar, drop me an email and we’ll notify you of the schedule when we figure it out. You can find my email at the top of this blog page.

One of my recent columns in The Costa Rica News was on the numerous micro-climates in Costa Rica. We feel like Atenas has just about the perfect one for us -- warm enough to welcome a swim or to sunbathe but breezy enough to be refreshing. If we get out early for our walks, the air is invigorating and pleasant and the evenings cool down so that I often need a light jacket if we stargaze from the front patio. But just up the mountain from us are several other towns with sizeable expat communities. Grecia, Sarchi, Naranjo and San Ramon are larger cities that are only a thirty-minute to an hour drive away from Atenas but all have considerably cooler climates. Some friends here in Atenas moved from San Ramon for just that reason; they found it to be much too chilly, cloudy and during the rainy season they felt utterly drowned by the heavy downpours. Even now, looking from our front yard up the hill toward these towns, there are clouds hanging over the higher elevations while here we are enjoying gorgeous blue skies.

Yesterday I had occasion to travel up the mountain to Grecia, the closest to Atenas, where a meeting of expats was being held. The U.S. Consul General Paul Birdsall was scheduled to appear to answer questions and explain what the U.S. Embassy does and what services it offers to Americans living here. Our friends Sally and Leonard were interested in attending and they have a car so off I went with them to listen and take notes for possible use in my TheCostaRicaNews.com column. It was being held at the Galeria Restaurant, a few blocks from downtown, and a place well known for fine food. Some thirty-five to forty Gringos were present, including several of us from Atenas. Although Mr. Birdsall’s prepared remarks on the structure of the Embassy, numbers of personnel, services offered and such, were somewhat dry, the discussion livened up once he opened the floor to questions. From complaints about the grammatically-challenged signage at the Embassy and questions regarding the new Costa Rican immigration law, to uncertainties about the effect of the U.S. health care reform legislation on citizens living abroad, queries about changes in the tax law and concerns about the dispute with Nicaragua over the northern border of Costa Rica, the dialogue ranged over many issues of interest to expats. We were glad we went!

On the return trip, Leonard stopped the car so I could take pictures of the gorgeous orange and yellow trees now in bloom around the countryside. We are told the orange-blossomed plants are not native to Costa Rica but they have certainly made themselves at home as we can see acres of them in bloom across our distant view.

Not only is the weather perfect here today but we are also being serenaded by some live and lively Latin music from up the hill at the pool and rancho. Our landlords are having a little party and the bongo drums and enthusiastic male voices are a delightful accompaniment to our sunny afternoon. Although I’m sure we are welcome to join them, so far we are staying down in our apartment to allow them the undisturbed use of their entertainment area. However, since Eduardo did extend the invitation this morning as he gathered limons for the fiesta, perhaps later in the afternoon we’ll grab a beer and join the festivities. Pura Vida!

How Do I Love Thee, Costa Rica? Let Me Count the Ways

After three weeks in the United States, traveling from California to Texas on sad personal duties as well as enjoyable visits with family and friends, my recent return to Costa Rica has reminded me all over again just why I love this place. Walking back down the driveway with my husband one night last week after locking the gate behind the departing taxi from the airport, I stopped and listened as the sounds of my adopted land serenaded my heart: the sweet rustle of palm fronds in a strong tropical breeze, the steady hum of a million busy insects, the occasional chirp of a bat. Holding hands, we looked up at the stars shining brightly between scattered clouds in a crystal clear sky and the silver moon smiling down on us in the balmy evening air. What a glorious land!

Today my appreciation of the sheer beauty of this country has only intensified as I awoke to sparkling sunny skies and a brisk wind dancing through the jungles around our apartment. A few clouds drift overhead, the sun is warm, birds are singing in the trees and I am grateful to be here.

Yet for all its natural splendor, what I most appreciate about Costa Rica is the people, their friendly open smiles, ready offers of help and genuine joy of life. In the United States, I was painfully aware of how reticent people were to make eye contact with a stranger or to offer a spontaneous “hello.” In contrast, as soon as I walked off the airplane, I caught the eye of a Tico worker in the jetway and immediately he and I smiled at one another and exchanged “Buenas noches” greetings. Although I had many pleasant experiences reconnecting with old friends on my journey, much of their conversations were related to the stresses of financial problems, the difficulties in finding a job, stories of cruel and thoughtless actions by professed friends or former lovers, the cost of living, the worries they face about the future. The “squeeze” they find themselves in from a bankruptcy, the loss of a good job, a home, a loved one, all combine to cast a gloomy pallor over their everyday lives.

While I was in Texas, the dreadful violence unfolded on Saturday, January 8^th, in Tucson, Arizona, in which Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords was critically injured, and six others were killed, including a federal judge and a 9-year-old little girl. As my friends and I discussed this tragedy and the senseless loss of innocent lives, we bemoaned the negative, even hostile, political atmosphere that has consumed America in recent years. With a Masters in Political Science and many years working in progressive political causes, including a decade as a First Amendment lobbyist, I have spent much of my career devoted to having a positive influence on political affairs and policy decisions in the U.S. But as the tone of American politics devolved into that of a bully in the schoolyard or worse, I found that I had little stomach left for my life’s work. The antagonistic mood and hateful speech which colors American politics and kills all civil discourse offers another contrast with life here in Costa Rica where political campaigns seem to be more a festive, if animated, dialogue on policy than a winner-take-all struggle for power, and the historical pattern of government seems more focused on caring for the overall citizenry than accumulating wealth to individuals.

So as we pondered our approaching retirement a few years ago, it was not a difficult decision for my husband and me to consider this Central American haven. Not only is the climate appealing, the cost of living attractive and the health care top-notch, but also living among Ticos with their delightful “Pura Vida” philosophy is unmatched for discovering a life free of stress and anxiety. The opportunity to downsize our lives, to shed our load of “stuff,” to abandon the North American focus on consumerism has all been a boon. The possibilities for engaging in meaningful volunteer work, of helping to preserve and appreciate the magnificent environment and ecology here and learning a new culture and language are advantages we did not really imagine when we arrived at the decision to make our home here. But now that we are here, we can see that retirement in Costa Rica was one of the best moves we ever made! 

Farewell to an Old Friend, Carrots to the New

It has been a tough holiday season for me, needless to say, having to put down my beloved Morgan horse, Indiana Mojave, two days after Christmas after more than 23 years of riding the trails together. That, plus the continuing worries about the health challenges of my family member has robbed me of any inspiration for writing a blog post. Traveling from Costa Rica to California, where I loaded up my suitcases with “stuff” we need in Atenas, then flying on to Texas to be with my mother has also tested my endurance as a traveler. The new airline rules on luggage fees, weight limits, change fees and such are really Draconian. Oddly enough, I found the easiest way around one of those issues is simply to cart your second bag to the gate and let them check it there. Although it would have cost an additional $35 had I checked my bag at the check-in counter, at the gate it was checked onboard at no charge. How silly is that?!

Another trick I used took advantage of the fact that Continental does not charge for the first bag. So, on the trip from Costa Rica on Continental, I put my one packed bag inside a bigger bag, the larger bag intended for the more heavily loaded return trip. (We have tons of stuff we would like to bring to Costa Rica, so every trip we load up).

The flight to California was a sentimental journey. On final approach into San Francisco International Airport (SFO), the big jet crossed over the Bay and circled downtown Oakland, giving me a nostalgic view of both the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge. Lots of fun times there and people I love. However, even though I miss much about the San Francisco area, I wouldn’t trade its cool foggy weather, traffic congestion and high prices for my tranquilo life in Costa Rica.

Although I arrived on Christmas Eve, the expected holiday crowds at airports or on public transportation never really materialized, I’m happy to say. Riding on BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) on Christmas Day as I commuted from my San Francisco airport hotel across the entire metropolitan area to Antioch, it was only me and a few other lone travelers for most of the ride. In San Francisco proper there were crowds between some stops but for the most part, it was a quiet trip.

The same cannot be said for my journey to Texas on the day before New Year’s Eve. Loaded down with two bags, the larger one now filled to its 50-pound limit, an overnight bag carrying two laptop computers, my purse and a coat, I was lucky to board the BART train at its initial station in Pittsburg/Bay Point or I might not have had a seat at all. Lugging those heavy suitcases around SFO and Dallas-Fort Worth Airport (DFW) taxed me physically, especially when the shuttle driver at DFW (which is a city-size monstrosity!) dropped me off at the wrong entrance for check-in, necessitating an exhausting trek through baggage claim areas to the American counter then back the same direction to my gate -- the farthest one, naturally! I was very glad to finally arrive here in San Angelo, Texas.

Officers' Row at Old Fort Concho

My mother’s home is located only a few blocks from historic Fort Concho, an old Army post from the late 1800s, and on my first morning walk I bundled up and headed toward the fort grounds to get some exercise in spite of the icy cold air. Located on the plateau where the North and Middle Concho Rivers join, Fort Concho is the best preserved of the Indian-era forts, with its original officers’ quarters running along one side of the huge parade grounds and the enlisted men’s barracks along the other, both built mostly of native limestone. Covering some forty acres and now designated as the Fort Concho National Historic Landmark, the old fort was home to Company “A” of the Tenth Cavalry, one of two all-black Army regiments known as “Buffalo Soldiers,” which helped patrol the frontier in the late 1800’s.

Well-preserved Officers' Quarters Three

The ruins of thick limestone walls 

Headquarters Building, across the Parade Grounds

The Post Hospital

Fort Concho Schoolhouse

Margie, the "Schoolmarm"

For many years my mother has served as a docent at the fort, leading tours of Officers’ Quarters Three and the Post Hospital in particular, and is extremely knowledgeable about Fort Concho history, the culture and practices of frontier life and the museum artifacts housed there. One of the colorful events held at the fort each year is “Christmas at Old Fort Concho,” a three-day living history panorama featuring period entertainment, artillery demonstrations, children’s workshops, military drills on horseback, shopping at numerous vendors booths and the Winter Rendezvous, where hundreds of costumed re-enactors at campsites across the parade grounds illustrate life in the Wild West of the 1800s. For her part, my mother dresses in a gorgeous teal green dress, modeling the clothing of an officer’s wife or at other times, in a modest long skirt and white blouse to serve as schoolmarm for “Frontier School,” an educational program for local fourth-graders. If you are ever in the West Texas area near San Angelo, a visit to the fort should be on your itinerary as it is a very special piece of American history.

On that first chilly hike, I wandered around the fort buildings and soon made my way toward the stables, where I knew I might find horses or mules housed. During public events, the animals are hitched to wagons or saddled for riding and used as part of the living history demonstrations. If I was lucky, I thought, I might find some equine residents at home. And indeed I did. Two very large jack mules, Mack and Joe, were standing by the fence as I approached that first day. Cautiously, I scratched and petted one and then the other through the fence, trying to make friends as they looked me over carefully. The next day I took carrots and the following day apples. As you can imagine, by now they look forward to my visits and welcome my attentions. As I look in their beautiful dark eyes, I am reminded of my sweet Mojave and know that I was lucky to have had him in my life. I hope he is galloping joyfully in green fields forever. Pura Vida, Mojave! 

Costa Rican Turtles: Trials and Tributes

Well, I am quite delinquent in my posting schedule, with more than a week having gone by without a report here. But it’s hard to write when one is dealing with sad personal issues. For me that included the tragic news that a dear family member is facing terminal cancer and is now counting her weeks here on earth. She has good friends and family to help her and is still enjoying some of her favorite things but hers is a poor prognosis. My heart is heavy indeed when I think of losing her.

About the same time, I began facing a tough decision of my own: It may be time to put my elderly Morgan horse down. His aches and pains are much worse during the California winter when the cold wind, rain and sometimes snow add to his discomfort. In spite of all the expensive medicines he takes and the good care he receives in his retirement home, the truth is he is not as mobile as such a magnificent creature deserves to be. For an animal whose joy in life depends on mobility, it is unkind to keep him alive, only able to walk slowly, not trot or gallop around the pasture on strong legs. So I’m heading to California soon to make that hard decision in person. He deserves no less from me after all the wonderful miles we’ve shared and the more than 23 years he’s been a part of my life.

So forgive me if I’m less than my typical upbeat self. It’s a sad season in spite of the sunshine and the holiday cheer all around here.

But we have had some fun times, including the Atenas Art Show and Auction on December 4^th and 5^th. Part of the profits from sales of the artwork were to benefit a local Tortuga Leatherback conservation program, an important effort here in Costa Rica as development has intruded on turtle nesting areas and poachers and predators cut into the survival rate of newborns. Estacion Las Tortugas is located on an undeveloped stretch of the Caribbean Coast. There, under the guidance of founder Stanley Rodriguez, staff and volunteers work to prevent the extinction of these magnificent creatures, the largest reptiles remaining on earth. Scientists predict the species could be extinct in less than three decades if poaching, long-line fishing, development and pollution continue unabated. A local artist and art teacher, Mary Parks, had created a striking picture featuring an underwater scene with a large Leatherback in the center, which was to be auctioned off with proceeds to go to Estacion Las Tortugas.

Included on the event schedule was an artists’ reception for Saturday evening, featuring the wines of our favorite importer Shannon, whose delicious Argentinean products were offered at our own little wine-tasting event a few weeks ago. Layne and I had wanted to find some traditional-style Costa Rican art to liven up the décor in our apartment so the reception seemed like the perfect opportunity to shop for local art, enjoy some wine and cheese and do our part to help the Tortuga program.

Our beautiful painting, entitled "Atardecer" or "Sunset"

And we were not disappointed. Not only were there dozens of attractive watercolors, oils, sculptures, photographs, lampshades and garden art by local artists, many of them students of Ms. Parks, but also we met a local young artist whose vibrant colorful scenes of Costa Rican life were exactly what we had been hoping to find. And since Layne’s birthday was coming up the following Friday, we invested in a painting that adds so much to our home.

 "Casa Frente al Lago" or "House in Front of the Lake"  

Darwin and Kat

Only 19-years-old, with the unlikely name of Darwin Romero, this young artist should have a bright future. His work features the exotic wildlife and flora of Costa Rica, from macaws, parrots and chickens to orchids and coffee fields. The brushwork is meticulous in detail, stunning in deep rich colors and innovative in the use of local materials. Our upstairs neighbor Linda bought a large painting in which Darwin had utilized sand, coffee beans and even eggshells to create a three-dimensional effect. Just stunning! Darwin’s older brother Jose, who spoke good English and served as salesman for the collection, said the young man had only been painting for five years. If he enjoyed good sales at this event, proving he could make money with his art, Jose he felt that their mother would allow Darwin to attend an art school in San Jose. We hope our purchases encourage her to permit him to study art and we certainly wish him the best of luck!

(For larger images, click on the photo.)

A Few of Our Favorite Things -- in English!

When will I learn? Always, always carry the camera! Yesterday when Layne and I headed out for our walk, I realized I had forgotten to bring my Panasonic but it was a little too far to go back and since we’d walked that way several times before, I figured that it was unlikely we would see any new sights. And for most of the walk, that was true. But we needed eggs so we continued on a block beyond our street to the little neighborhood pulperia (small grocery store). As we were paying for our items, a group of school children queued up behind us, giggling as kids will do. When I smiled and greeted them with “Hola,” the five girls of eight or nine years old and one younger boy responded with shy “Hello’s” in English. They exited the store while we were rearranging our bags but when the Tica store clerk called out something to them in Spanish, apparently reminding them of their manners, they all turned back to say a polite “Goodbye” to us. Then as we followed them out, they struck up a conversation with us, obviously proud of their language skills and anxious to impress us Gringos.

“What is your name,” the friendliest and most confident little girl asked. We all shared names. Then it was, “What is your favorite color?” “What is your favorite subject?” “Your favorite animal?” They were quite exuberant in their questioning, the girls laughing, poking each other and answering all the questions in English, pushing the small boy to join in. They told us they were learning English in school, which they pointed out as the Catholic School across from the pulperia, and claimed to really like their teachers. When I said, “Vivimos en Calle Capre Verde,” explaining that we live on Capre Verde Street, the apparent leader of the group looked surprised and merrily said they did too. So we all strolled down our dirt road, continuing to converse in our two diverse languages. I think we have some new friends! If only I had had my camera, you could have seen what a charming and attractive group they were. Perhapsnext time.

But I have had my camera on duty recently learning to use the video function. We have a large resident lizard that comes to sun on our front steps occasionally, eyeing me suspiciously when I step too close. Here’s a short video clip of his antics on the rock wall along our parking space.

OK, it didn't work. I'll keep working on it. Bummer!

On yesterday’s walk, I spied a rather sizable cactus frond growing in the mossy ditch beside the road. It was just one of those determined plants that had sprouted from a fallen chunk shed from a larger cactus, possibly even pushed down the ditch by the recent hard rains from somewhere up the road. As Layne shook his head at my resolve, I managed to extract it from the muck and carry it home with nary a sticker prick. Now it’s happily planted alongside my robust vegetable collection, which is soon to be transplanted into our “community garden” up the hill behind our landlord’s house.

I also captured some images of a recent double rainbow, which stretched all across our eastern sky late in the afternoon following a heavy rain and during a still light misting of precipitation. It was amazing! These shots don’t really do it justice but at least you can get some idea just how grand it was.

And finally, here is a collection of butterflies and flowers - just a small sampling of the incredible array of flora and fauna in this beautiful country. Pura Vida!