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Monday, February 18, 2013

The Hike From Hell!


Happy Birthday to me, I fell on my knee! 

Yes, today's my birthday and it'll be party time here tonight. The Santa Eulalia gang is bringing all the food for a celebration of my big day. And indeed, I am nursing a bit of a bunged up knee from a fall in the river on yesterday's "hike from hell," as Chris baptized it after my dunk in the drink. There'll probably be no dancing for me tonight.

Marcial reconnoiters far down the hill
Yesterday was actually one of our most beautiful and fun treks, but it was difficult, steep and challenging. To summarize, we had three bloodies, two fallers, one punctured and one quitter. Well, Eroca didn't really quit; she just decided on that first steep downhill that she had on the wrong shoes, so she turned back and walked most of the way into town to where Marc was doing his Sunday shift at Kay's Gringo Cafe. A very wise move, as it turned out; they were definitely the wrong shoes for this hike. 

The rest of us trudged on... and on ... and on, following steep cow trails down to the river that meanders through Santa Eulalia before eventually joining up with the Rio Grande in the canyon far below Atenas.
Seidy heads down the hill

Sue snaps Chris "caught" as Eroca looks on
Things were off-kilter from the start: I tore my favorite shorts before even leaving home, Chris and Sue missed their bus, Seidy forgot her camera and Sue's camera battery died after one shot. Then navigating the first barbed wire fence, Chris decided that given his height, he should just step over the fence instead of going through as the rest of us had. Oops. His pant leg caught on the wire, cut his leg a bit and yanked a hole in his favorite pants. First blood was drawn.

Marcial removes the spike
When we had almost reached the bottom of the hill, Sue took her first fall, sliding feet-first on the powdery dirt right into my boots, but I managed somehow to stay upright as we laughed at the treacherous terrain. Finally we reached the river only to find that Marcial had stepped on a huge thorn somewhere along the way. So we sat on some rocks while he dug the offending spike out from his boot.

Marcial helps Sue over the rocks
It being the dry season, the river was quite low leaving many exposed rocks for us to scramble over and allowing a lengthy exploration of the stream. As one bank became impassable, we would simply cross over to the other side, switching sides four or five times. It was on that last crossing that I foolishly decided to follow Seidy, who had stepped lightly across the water on rocks that seemed well spaced to me. But I'm much bigger than Seidy so as I reached with my left foot for the next rock, the stone under my right foot rolled and down I went, catching myself with my right hand and right knee. As I extracted myself from this ignominious position, submerged up to my thighs, Marcial quickly said: "Give me the camera!" It seems the featured players in my regular narratives here enjoy seeing their pictures so Marcial definitely had his priorities in order. Of course, everyone was asking if I was okay and other than a slight pain in that knee and my injured pride, I was fine. Luckily, so was my camera and cell phone. But with blood dripping from a small split in the shin, I became "second blood" on this hellacious excursion. Later Marcial himself became "third blood" as some brush tore his leg. Lesson learned: follow Marcial, our fearless leader Costa Rica Dundee, not little Seidy who moves like a cat.





The scenery along the river was splendid, however, especially one amazing sheer cliff that soared high above us with chunks of rock hanging precariously from the upper reaches. Each layer of rock seemed to extend further out over the river than the one below it, making it appear as if the rock face was leaning toward us. One good earthquake, we decided, and that that big mass of rock hanging by only a narrow strip would come tumbling down, as we could see many hundreds of other boulders had done in the past.
Boulders for a river crossing
At one spot where we wanted to cross, the river was uncooperative offering no suitable causeway so Marcial and Chris proceeded to build a "bridge" by moving large rocks into the shallows of the stream. As they did so, Marcial noticed a dark "rock" he had almost stepped on before realizing it was a turtle. The poor fellow became a star attraction for a few minutes as we stopped to admire him and take his picture before setting him back into the creek.
Chris building a "bridge"; Marcial holding our turtle
Señor Tortuga
Seidy urges me on!
But what goes down must come back up so it was soon time for the uphill portion of the hike, the part Sue and I dread. As well we should in this case as parts of the trail were almost vertical, or so it seemed. At each switchback we would take a short break, drink water and question Marcial as to how much further we had to go. "Oh, not too much farther," he would say. Sue and I would exchange skeptical looks, having heard the same thing at the last stop. At one point, I asked Marcial if he knew where we were or if perhaps we were lost. "No, not lost," he said, "but we do have to find our way from here." Isn't that about the same as lost?

Sue takes a break with the valley below
A bunch of cute piglets
Eventually we began to see familiar landmarks -- the chicken farm in the distance, an old abandoned cabin on a hillside. Crossing through still more barbed wire fences -- some of which left more bloody marks on our legs -- we arrived at a small pig farm located behind Marcial and Seidy's property. By now Sue and I were definitely dragging, trying to avoid catching our boots on vines or stumbling over the rough ground. Indeed, Sue's second fall was on grassy furrowed ground just beyond the pig farm. But no harm, no foul, as we say.

Just squeeze!
Walking through orchards behind Marcial's home, we stopped under an orange tree where Seidy deftly used her walking stick to knock down fruit, which Marcial then peeled and cut off the top for a fresh-squeezed cup of orange juice! "Vitaminas y minerales," Seidy said sagely, and indeed the juice was a definite pick-me-up. 

But it was the cervezas on Marcial's patio that really brought us all back to life. Joined now by Stephen, Eroca and Marc and fortified by fresh fruit and sausage sandwiches we enjoyed a long and wonderful afternoon, looking at family photos of the boys when they were kids and of Marcial and Seidy as a young married couple. It was a memorable time for us all as we continued to deepen our friendship sharing good food, intimate conversation and the joys of Pura Vida!




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Thursday, February 7, 2013

Costa Rica Calls with San Carlos Memories

My bus arrives

I'm B-a-a-ck! After a somewhat stressful month of caring for my son Damian following knee surgery, I'm happy to say I'm back in Costa Rica. And how wonderful it is to be here! The sun is shining, the sweet mandarins and luscious mangos are ripening on our trees, the air feels fresh and clean and I'm about to catch a bus into Atenas for breakfast at Tres Hermanas and to pick up a few groceries.

Happily, the surgery to remove torn cartilage was successful and Damian is doing all the right things to make a complete recovery. My time there was a mix of concern for his healing and joy at having such a luxurious length of time with him and my precious grandson Kai, now a full-fledged teenager of fourteen years. One of the high points for me was attending a musical performance featuring Kai on trumpet with his four-piece ensemble at Sonoma State University. Boy, was I proud of him for making the effort to go despite feeling poorly from a lingering cold.

Sadly, my darling Layne is now in Portland, Oregon, for a month visiting his sister and planning to attend the 100th birthday of the family matriarch Hazel this weekend. That, of course, will be a joyous occasion but other aspects of his trip are more challenging, with health and mobility issues plaguing his sister Annie and her husband Jim. I know they are glad to have him there but I miss him terribly. With me gone a month and now Layne to be gone a month, this will be the longest we have ever been apart in our 33 years of love and partnership.

The gang by the river
But now that I'm back in our comfortable home, it's time to bring my loyal readers up to date on the local adventures, beginning with the last Sunday hike before I left for California. It was a long-planned excursion to San Carlos, the region where our friend Marcial was born and, like most Ticos speaking of their hometown, he claims it to be the most beautiful part of Costa Rica. After our visit there, I am inclined to agree!

Several years ago in a quirk of Fate - a case of mistaken identity - Marcial chanced to meet a man who had a piece of property for sale very near where he had been raised, so of course he was interested in seeing it. But as these things often go, the planned trip to see the land did not happen and it was some two years later when Marcial again contacted the man that he was able to visit the property in person. Needless to say, he fell in love with it and in partnership with his son Gabriel was able to purchase it for a very good price. He and Seidy hope one day to build a house on it and retire in the peace and tranquility of San Carlos.

We arrive at the neighbor's home
Nestled deep down a secluded hillside at the confluence of two small rivers, the land is a riot of foliage and flowers with the music of waters rushing over rocks and down small waterfalls as a constant background orchestra. Following a two-hour ride in a rented van holding nine of us and trailed by another car with four more, we passed through Ciudad Quesado, the largest town in the San Carlos canton, where Marcial pointed out his high school and other landmarks of his youth. Leaving town we ventured out into remote wilderness over the predictably rough and pot-holed roads and up steep inclines with magnificent views to finally arrive at the property.

Following Marcial down... 
Well, actually at the neighbor's property at the top of the hill, from whence we struck off on foot down an overgrown single-track path through precipitous but beautiful terrain. As we hiked down the sheer trail, Layne and I looked askance at one another, thinking "What goes down must come back up!" But that would be much later, so laughing it off we followed our friends a kilometer or more to the clearing at the bottom beside the rivers.

Bonnie taking in the scenery
Bonnie's son Adam and Stephen relax
Sue and Chris look happy
The neighbor has built a large colorful rancho, which she allows most anyone to use, and it was there that we spread out our potluck picnic lunch and the inevitable supply of tequila and beer. 
Marcial breaks out the tequila
Seidy visits with Daniel and Jai
Most of this lovely day was spent lounging in the rancho or on rocks beside the river but the high point for me was when Marcial led the way through the jungle to a stretch of his property where the river pools above a small waterfall. 


Following Chris to the river
Stephen captures Seidy by the river
Yours Truly, lovin' it!
So refreshing!
Marcial, at home in "his" river
The water is calm enough for a swim, although at midstream you still feel a strong current and swimming upstream against it is an invigorating athletic challenge. The cool moving water offered the perfect freshness for the warm day and the setting was ever so idyllic. I felt such ecstasy, such incredible privilege, such breathtaking happiness to be swimming alongside my friends in an unspoiled river deep in the jungles of Costa Rica. Certainly not an experience the ordinary tourist would have!

Santa Eulalia sunset
Much later as we trudged back up the hill, some of us taking advantage of a Jeep ride halfway up, we all expressed our wonder at our great good fortune in knowing such friends as Marcial and Seidy who share their lives with us with such generosity.

The next night following our Sunday outing was my last night before leaving for California and it seemed the Santa Eulalia sunset was determined to remind me of the beauty I was leaving behind. You can well imagine just how good it is to be back here. Pura Vida indeed!


  

Monday, January 7, 2013

Python Goes One Chicken Too Far

(Correction: I've been informed by a reader that Costa Rica has no "Pythons" so consider all references to Python to be Boa Constrictor.) 
Words are hardly adequate to describe the incredible past week and a half for Layne and me but words being my coinage, I'll have to try and pay the price. As my readers know, the highlight of virtually every week around here is our Sunday hike with "the Santa Eulalia gang" and Sunday the 30th of December was no exception. It started out normally enough: we'd spend a couple of hours traipsing the back trails of our barrio with a loose plan to end up at some restaurant along the way for lunch. As we followed picturesque Calle Vanilla that runs below the ridge behind our house, the adventure began to unfold.

First of all, this remote dirt lane is beautiful just on its own, with huge stands of bamboo reaching to the sky and the yellow-flowered vanilla trees for which the road is named offering their own charm. As we meandered up the last unpaved portion into a small village, we noticed a rustic house with a large covered patio nestled deep in the jungle. Seidy liked the look of the place snuggled in the greenery, so we stopped for a closer look. Just inside the front foliage was a group of men standing over a huge  they had just slain, capital punishment for poaching their chickens. The fearsome creature was magnificent, really, with its complex brown, beige and black pattern and enormous as you can see. Amazing!



With Marcial and Seidy's inimitable networking skills, we were all soon chatting in English and Spanish with Don Yeyo, learning that his brother uses the large patio area to make furniture on the weekends, including the wooden rocking chairs that Layne and I covet for our veranda. Good information to have. 
Bonnie and Seidy look on as Don Yeyo chats
Orchids... 
... and more orchids!
More beautiful flowers
Amazing foliage
Seidy admires the garden as Marcial enjoys rice pudding
The lady of the house brought out dishes of a yummy rice pudding and showed us her yard full of orchids and other lovely plants. Ho-hum -- just another day on the trail!

By contrast, our return trip was uneventful, unless you count finding a hidden river. With the help of some bamboo walking sticks machete'd for us by "Costa Rica Dundee" aka Marcial, we strolled down a steep grassy slope along a narrow cow trail, discovered only the day before by Marcial and his son Daniel, to a pretty little babbling stream. 

Seidy, Marcial and Yours Truly relax by the pool
We carefully picked our way across the rocks to take a break by a quiet pool before hiking up the other slope to the road and on to a convenience store for cold water and cold beers. Exercising a little restraint this day, there was no tequila in our plans as we all made our happy way back home.

But the next night was a different matter: New Year's Eve at Stephen and Bonnie's house was a festive affair attended by the whole gang, including our long-absent friends Chris and Sue who had returned that very day from packing and shipping duties back in the States. Their container won't arrive for another month or two but they were ecstatic to be back among their Santa Eulalia friends. We managed to hold off on the champagne until close to midnight when the multitude of large and small fireworks visible across the valley offered the perfect way to bring in the New Year.

With everything closed for the holidays, life slowed to a quieter pace for a day or two but for Layne and me there were more adventures in the offing. My son Damian had written a few weeks earlier asking if I might come to California to assist him following knee surgery he was facing in early January and, of course, I was happy to say Yes. But with the prospect of a month in chilly and damp San Francisco, I was longing for just one more trip to the beach before I departed, a little more sun and surf to hold me until I return in early February.

So with some help from Marcial we made last minute arrangements to bus down to Esterillos Oeste for an overnight stay at his friend Wilberth's beachfront hotel, Rancho Coral. It seems Marcial met Wilberth and his wife Eve Araya some years ago and bonded on many levels, not the least is that the two men share the same last name of Artavia and were born and raised in the north central portion of the country. Although not directly related, they nevertheless call each other primo, or cousin.
Rancho Coral gardens
Rancho Coral is a real find! Comfortable and secluded with only seven apartments, the gardens rampant with greenery and adorned with an abundance of hammocks strung from tree to tree, chickens running free along with a dozen or so friendly dogs rescued by Wilberth and Eve, the place is an absolute delight. The broad beige sandy beach is just steps away from your room and the surf is wonderfully clean and clear and delightfully warm. The breakfast is delicious, the coffee good and strong. One night was not nearly enough. In fact, we plan to return during the low season with the whole Santa Eulalia gang and take over the place. Look out, Wilberth and Eve!
Playa Esterillos Oeste
Enjoying some Aqua Pipa, fresh from the coconut

View from a hammock #1
View from a hammock #2
The real drama was in our bus travels. When we pre-purchased our tickets in San Jose in order to assure ourselves of seats, the cashier said that the bus leaving San Jose at 7:00 a.m. should arrive at the Atenas bus stop on the main road about 7:30 a.m. When we stepped out of our taxi at 7:15, however, we had barely time to catch our breath before our bus arrived. Even then the driver somehow missed our stop and let us off a mile down the road at a deserted parada where Wilberth soon came to pick us up. 
Waiting for Wilberth
Returning on Saturday night, it was just the opposite: along with a half dozen Ticos, we waited almost an hour and a half for the big vehicle to show up. Go figure. Or as we say in Costa Rica, Pura Vida!

(PS - As a holiday gift to my readers, Layne's novel MORAL TURPITUDE is available for FREE through January 31st. (NC-17 but not erotica.) To download it, click HERE to go directly to the book page; then click Add to Cart. You will have to register but it's very simple and you will get no spam. At the Cart page, enter Coupon Code QN77G, then click Update. The price will change to $0.00. Enjoy!)