No Water? No Internet? Pura Vida??

What a funny, unpredictable country Costa Rica is! In my last post, I reported the frustrating saga of the undelivered remote control from SKY TV and the numerous trips to the post office and phone calls to the company trying to track it down. In that last phone call when Tech Support guided me through a repair of the frozen television picture as well as a resuscitation of the unresponsive clicker, the techie had also canceled our order for a new remote control since we no longer needed one. So what happened yesterday morning? At 7:15, there was a call from the post office informing me that the remote control had been delivered. LOL! Somehow I managed to convey the information that the order had been canceled and our patient postal clerk said fine. I presume the unwanted clicker will be returned to SKY. Now we’ll wait and see if the $19 charge for the thing is on our next bill. If it is, still another call will be required to reverse that. Patience, Gringa, patience.

Downtown San Jose traffic 

Meet my dentist, Dr. Alberto Meza

So after being without water off and on for days now, yesterday and this morning we had no Internet. Costa Rica may not be “third-world,” but it’s not exactly “first-world” yet either. As addicted as we are to online news and email and Facebook contacts, it has been a trying couple of days. 

The Internet is truly our lifeline to the world and to family and friends back home. Easing the pain yesterday was the fact that our Tai Chi class filled much of the morning, then in the afternoon we bused into San Jose to my dentist’s office to pick up a night guard. Dr. Alberto Meza assures me that I need to wear this mouthful of plastic in order to protect the implant he did several years ago on my first medical tourism trip to Costa Rica. Being a light sleeper, I do hate the thing. But the implant has been so reliable and trouble-free, it seems prudent to follow the doctor’s orders on this.

The rainy season has evidently started early this year. As the clouds appear here in the early afternoon and the thunder rolls in the distance, it’s clear we’re in for another shower today, the third day in a row for late-afternoon precipitation. At least we don’t have to water the garden so much now. But it could spell trouble for our friends’ Sue and Christine who are due to arrive on Thursday for a visit. As reported in my last post, their original flight was canceled at the very last minute, literally at 4:00 a.m. when they arrived at the gate.  

Part of last year's Oxcart Parade

 La Estrella Valley

But the silver lining to this story is that their re-booked trip is now two weeks instead of only one, giving us much more time to tour the country. And we do have some great trips lined up: sea kayaking and off-shore fishing at Bahia Rica on the Nicoya Peninsula; more kayaking, hiking and volcano watching at Hotel Tilawa on Lake Arenal; enjoying this year’s Climate Fair and Oxcart Parade here in Atenas; and finally, visiting their high school pal, Layne’s first wife Kate, and her Tico husband Gilberto high up in a tiny mountain village called La Estrella, or The Star. Along the way we’ll visit the Gold Museum, the Jade Museum and perhaps the beautiful Teatro Nacional in downtown San Jose. All in all, it promises to be a pretty fabulous trip not only for our visitors but for Layne and me as well. We’ll be seeing some parts of Costa Rica that we’ve never visited and I look forward to sharing some of our adventures with you! Pura Vida!

Zen and the Art of Pura Vida!

When they warn you to have “patience, patience, patience” here in Costa Rica, they aren’t kidding. We’ve had a couple of object lessons on this motto lately and at least one of the slow-moving problems is still unresolved.

Manual labor builds roads

In a previous post, I wrote about the water problems here in Barrio Los Angeles: low and sporadic water pressure, then no water at all. We struggled through several days of having to lug containers of water down from the rancho to the apartment, eating out since food preparation and dish washing were difficult, unable to wash clothes and, worst of all, forced to take cold showers up in the rancho baño. For a few days, we assumed that the problems were related to roadwork on Calle Capre Verde, with gutters and pipes being installed in preparation for paving our little dirt lane. But additional research by our landlady Odie revealed that the city’s construction of a new water tower on the primary road leading to Los Angeles had disrupted water mains and service would probably not be restored until that work was done. Oh, great.

Our new water tower! 

Then, miraculously the water came back on, but only for a few precious days. Once again, last Saturday we were suddenly without water, except for a trickle sometimes at night. On Sunday evening, Odie informed us she had learned that the next day, water would be off in the morning but should be restored for good by mid-day. It seems that the new water tower had to fill up enough for sufficient pressure to push the liquid to us, but as people used what there was, the pressure dropped again. Welcome to the dry season. For a country with so much water falling from the sky, it doesn’t seem to be managed very well.

Another saga that tested our patience involved the television remote control for our cable service called SKY TV, a company that serves all of Central America. A few weeks ago, our clicker stopped clicking. When new batteries didn’t bring it back to life, I called the SKY TV phone number and was pleased to be connected quickly to an English-speaker in Customer Service who, after guiding me through a short test, offered to send out a new one. He said the replacement should arrive at the local post office in five days, perhaps less. We would need a copy of our landlord’s identification since the account is in his name. No problem there as Eduardo and Odie are always so responsive to our needs.

Always the optimists, we went to the post office on the fourth day and in my best Spanish, I asked if there was a caja (box) or paquete (package) from SKY TV for Eduardo Alexis Calderon. No, sorry. Check back in a few days.

After several more unsuccessful trips, I called SKY TV again and was assured that their records definitely showed the package had been delivered to the Atenas post office. Since there is only one post office in this small town, we knew we weren’t going to the wrong building. Take a deep breath and seek your Zen.

But after drawing still another blank at the post office, I called SKY TV and once more and spoke with a fellow who gave me a tracking number. This should do it, I thought. On our next trip, we were greeted with a knowing smile by Mario the postal clerk.  He checked in his computer for the number, but with a sad shake of his head informed me that it was not in his system.

Through all this, we had been able to use the television manually but suddenly, the picture froze and nothing worked. On the next call to SKY, I talked with Tech Support not Customer Service and guess what? By phone, they managed to fix not only the picture problem but the remote control as well! All the weeks of patience surely built character at least.

But hey! Things could be worse. Our friends from Central Oregon who were scheduled to arrive here last Sunday called early that morning to inform us that after driving to the Redmond airport at 4:00 a.m. in a snow flurry, they learned their flight to Costa Rica had been canceled! Now there’s a disappointment that would really challenge your patience. At least here the skies are blue, the breeze is warm and we have television and water! Hallelujah and Pura Vida!  

Kids, More Kids and Orchids

Layne and I have been in a pretty celebratory mood since last Thursday. That’s when we got word that his brain scan had come back normal. Yippee! No mini-stroke! Now that’s something to celebrate. So when we got a last-minute invitation to a little boy’s one-year-old birthday party on Saturday, we were delighted to accept. Plus, some old friends from the United States would be there, grandparents of the birthday boy. We go back many years with Karen and Joe, including playing dress-up at a series of hilarious Halloween parties with Karen’s sisters, Penny and Ruth, both of whom are also dear friends of ours. With the prospect of seeing Karen and Joe, renewing acquaintance with their son Greg and his wife Amanda and joining little Lincoln for his first birthday, we happily packed our swimsuits and got ready to hop on the bus from Atenas into San Jose.

But once we arrived at the downtown San Jose bus station, ironically known as Coca Cola because of its former function, we wondered how we would know which bus to take to Escazu, where Greg and Amanda live. The directions to their condominium complex were typical for Costa Rica: two hundred meters past World Gym on the old road from Escazu to Santa Ana. Not very helpful for getting around by bus and we had no idea what a taxi might cost. But as luck would have it, as soon as we exited our bus from Atenas, a bus pulled in under the Santa Ana sign and in the window was a small placard reading “Calle Vieja.” Old Road! I stepped up to the driver with map in hand and began trying to ask if he stopped near our destination but he sharply ordered me to “Pase! Pase!” -- move out of the way of other riders getting onboard. This was not your typical friendly Tico. He seemed to be having a bad day. Fortunately, as has so often happened for us, a young Tica came to my aide and we learned from her that indeed the bus would stop a block away from our destination. With her help, we arrived with no difficulty and had a wonderful time at the birthday shindig, indulging in Amada’s great bean dip and guacamole, Greg’s delicious grilled shish-ka-bob and laughing as the kids smacked the piñata.

A great breakfast!

Apartotel LaSabana pool area

Before leaving Atenas, Layne and I had checked the return bus schedule and to avoid a late bus ride home, we had decided to stay overnight in the city at our favorite small hotel, Apartotel LaSabana Conveniently located near downtown and with an English-speaking staff, we always enjoy our stays there, especially the fabulous Tico breakfast buffet included with the room charge.

We had heard there was a big orchid show that weekend and being the orchid-lover that I am, I had hoped to attend. Our impromptu trip into San Jose gave me that opportunity. So on Sunday morning we stowed our bags with the hotel staff and headed off for the day’s adventures, catching a bus along Paseo Colon and noting our progress on our GPS, fondly known as “Ilsa” for her Germanic directives.

After the final bus stop, we set off on foot, counting on Ilsa in pedestrian mode to help us find the way. As we wandered along we soon noticed musicians setting up onstage in the Parque Morazon amid signs announcing a Festival de Verano, or Festival of Spring, and the further into the central park we went, the more activities we discovered. Eventually we made our way to Parque Espana where even more festivities were in evidence: huge play structures for the kids, plus dozens of vendors with clothing, jewelry, decorations made of recycled plastic, hand puppets, leather goods, artwork and even furniture made from old computer parts. Then there were the dancers -- the women dressed in traditional colorful full skirts, the men flashing their red and blue bandanas. It was all in perfect harmony with our happy feelings of gratitude for our joy in being together and our good health. Pura Vida!

Eventually we pulled ourselves away from the outdoor festival and entered the grand hall of Antigua Aduana or Old Customs, now known as the Centro del Arte y la Cultura, the Center for Art and Culture where the Asociacion Costarricense de Orquideologia was hosting their show. What a splash of color greeted us! Hundreds of gorgeous orchid blooms were displayed in charming little environments, each designed to show off the majestic blossoms to best effect. As we wandered along the roped off area with dozens of other attendees, the flowers simply amazed us. From the grandest purple cattleyas of high school prom fame to a stalk of the tiniest pink flowers imaginable, the variety and beauty of orchids is simply breathtaking. And of course, here in Costa Rica, the national flower is an orchid by the name of Guaria Morada. As we finished the exhibits and entered the sales area, it was difficult for me to resist buying a plant or two. But with a bus trip ahead of us, it seemed too risky. Besides, orchid plants are for sale each Friday at our feria and it is probably safer to buy one locally. 

Tired but satisfied, we taxied back to the hotel to collect our bags then on to Coca Cola for the trip back to Atenas on the 1:30 p.m. bus. Only the 1:30 bus didn’t show up until after 2 p.m. Even then, the trip back home was unusually lengthy. It seems the powers-that-be had decided to close part of the main road where a bridge is under repair and detour traffic through side streets. It took over a half hour just to get out of San Jose. But that’s why we like riding the bus. As I read my book and Layne took a nap, we stayed tranquilo all the way home. No problema! 

(Remember you can click on any photo to enlarge it.)

Apartotel LaSabana

Cold Showers and CAT scans

Janis and Penny, long ago

A month with no blog posts. A month of death and drama, stress and strain, worry and weariness with a little Costa Rican comedy thrown in for good measure. A few days after my last post here, I traveled to Texas to be with my mother as we faced the imminent passing of my older sister from pancreatic cancer. And indeed, only three days after I arrived, we received word that Janis had died peacefully in her sleep. A tragic loss for my mom but a blessing for my sister as she had suffered greatly in her final days and weeks.

Then began the difficult but important task of helping my mom update all the papers for her estate: calling insurance companies, revising her Will and powers of attorney and all the other minutiae necessitated by a change in family structure, even while in bereavement. Still, the days ticked away and Mother and I managed to have some good times together, shopping for things I wanted to bring back to Costa Rica, watching and discussing the unfolding drama in Egypt on television and feasting on local Tex-Mex, Miss Hattie's Cafe gourmet food and barbeque. Especially the delicious ribs and brisket at our favorite place, Old Time Pit Barbeque. But in still another distressing blow to my mom’s emotions, Old Time Pit burned down a few days after I returned to Costa Rica. As Mother and I said in commiseration to one another, "When it rains, it pours."

Miss Hattie's dining room

And for me, it just kept pouring. Although I had planned to stay a few more days in Texas, on Monday the 28th while on a phone call with Layne here in Costa Rica, I learned that he had just experienced a “health event,” a sudden blurring of vision in both eyes that cleared soon after, an indication of a possible mini-stroke.

It was just December when Layne was first diagnosed with elevated blood pressure in a routine visit to Linea Vital, the local private medical group we joined in order to avoid the sometimes lengthy waits for service through the nationalized health plan known as CAJA. CAJA is great for emergencies and major medical needs but for routine visits, Linea Vital is the choice of many Ticos and Gringos here in Atenas. They have English-speaking doctors on duty 24/7 and an ambulance service available at all times. For a “premium” membership, we pay $65 per month for both of us, which includes free doctor’s visits, house calls, annual physicals and many other services.

As Layne described his scary symptoms to me, I told him to call Linea Vital immediately for an ambulance and get in to see a doctor right away, even as I was making reservations to leave for Costa Rica that very afternoon. But when Layne called Linea Vital, he was told that they had a number of patients waiting and that it would be a couple of hours before he could see a doctor. As we have since learned, what Layne didn’t say was that he was a “member.” Members get priority and had he said that magic word, service would have been prompt.

CIMA Hospital

As it was, he called our wonderful landlords who arranged for a Cruz Roja (Red Cross) ambulance (at no charge!) which took him to Linea Vital where, once they realized he was a member, he was seen without delay. In follow-up visits since then, he was given an EKG (also at no charge), which seemed basically normal and a referral for a brain scan at CIMA, a highly respected and high-tech hospital in San Jose. He just underwent that CT scan today at the modest cost of about $440. We fully expect those results to be negative as his doctor is considering other less serious possibilities as well, but it will be reassuring to know that he did not have a stroke.

Curbs going in on Calle Capre Verde 

Meanwhile, back at the rancho, we were having water problems. We had been warned that water pressure might drop during the dry season but in our kitchen the tap had slowed to a trickle. In part we had assumed this was due to roadwork being done on our dirt lane, Calle Capre Verde, in preparation for paving; but since we had adequate pressure in the lavatory and shower, we wondered if there might be a blockage in the line to the kitchen sink. Then, on Saturday morning, all the water stopped. Zero, zip, nada. And as luck would have it, we had just moments before put on a load of wash. Our clothes were now sitting in about 4 inches of water and laundry soap. I had just gone for a walk and needed a shower and there were dishes in the sink from breakfast! What the heck happened to Pura Vida?

In a call to our landlady Odie, we learned that much of Atenas was without water due to underground work being done near Coopeatenas grocery up the road. She thought it would be back on by 6 o’clock, she said, and of course, there was un-potable water available up at the rancho and a shower there as well, albeit with only cold water. Brrrr! Since 6 o’clock didn’t seem so far away, we waited. And waited. Well, perhaps she meant 6 o’clock in the morning.

When Sunday morning came, our hopes were dashed as still nothing was coming from the dry taps. And now the rancho wasn’t even available because Odie had the young students in her Spanish Immersion School meeting there for a lecture and party on the first day of their 10-day study trip.

By Monday, we were becoming desperate, both for clean plates as well as clean hair. We lugged a tray full of dishes up to the rancho and washed them in the sink in the barbeque area, then hauled them back down to the apartment. Fearing the worst for our poor clothes still sitting in soapy water, Layne and I carted containers of water from the rancho down to the laundry room and set the machine to finish the wash cycle. With no water for the rinse, however, and with Layne under doctor’s orders to minimize his exercise, it was up to me to haul the wet clothes up to the rancho sink for hand-rinsing, then back down to the washer once again for a final spin before hanging them on the line. By the time I finished I was exhausted and ready to face that cold shower, a necessity since Layne had his medical appointment the next day.

Layne entering the hi-tech scanner

So here it is Tuesday and our housekeeper somehow worked a miracle this morning and managed to clean our house, apparently schlepping water back and forth from the rancho while we were at CIMA for the brain scan. What an angel she is! This experience has given me a whole new appreciation of the kind of labor-intensive lives most people in developing countries endure. And now, late in the day on Tuesday, it appears that the water is beginning to flow once again. The lesson here? Count your blessings, Gringos, and never take running water for granted! 

Too Busy to Be Bored

So often we are asked by friends in the United States, “How do you spend your time there in Costa Rica? What do you do? Aren’t you bored?”

For those of you accustomed to busy lives of commuting, shopping, running errands, paying bills and the rest of the minutiae of life with a full-time job and family responsibilities, the thought of retiring to a tropical land may seem to promise as much boredom as fulfillment, a case of too much time on your hands. After the “new” wears off of basking in sunshine, bird- and monkey-watching, admiring exotic flora, checking out museums and national parks, doesn’t one get a little jaded by it all? The answer really depends on the individual and you can stay as busy here or idle as you choose. Like anywhere, life in Costa Rica is what you make of it.

On a recent outing with friends to a beautiful Gulf of Nicoya beach, I listened as the women discussed their lives as expat retirees.

“It’s amazing just how easily I have adjusted to retirement,” one friend commented. “I never thought I would. I was a complete workaholic, the first one at work, the last to go home. Usually I was still there when the maintenance staff came around.”

“Yes, me, too,” another woman said. “Until we got here, retiring was the last thing I wanted to do. I loved my job but I love going to the beach more!” We all laughed as we sat soaking in the sun and gazing out at the picturesque view.

As they talked, I found myself quietly disagreeing as they proclaimed their contentment with relaxing in a hammock and reading a good book. Like them, I never imagined actually “retiring.” After all, my elderly mother still has a paying part-time job as well as numerous volunteer duties in her West Texas town. With a role model like that, I always thought I would be working well past normal retirement age. But when the economic downturn hit and I was laid off like so many other Baby Boomer-age North Americans with no job prospects in sight, Layne and I could read the tea leaves: we would soon face a financial shortfall each month unless we changed our lifestyle pretty significantly.

Moving to Costa Rica has given us that affordable lifestyle but it is anything but boring. Somehow we stay remarkably busy. For one thing, having no car means we do much more walking than we ever did in the States. Walking takes time so, for instance, a recent trip into town for haircuts took up most of the morning and, by the way, cost only $12 for both of us. Every Friday we make the thirty-minute hike to the feria to pick up a week’s worth of fresh veggies, fruits, chicken or chiccarones, those tasty fried pork pieces so popular here. While strolling through the farmers’ market, we stop to chat with friends, examine handmade jewelry or weavings offered by a Guatemalan senora and consider which of the organic breads from Tom’s Bakery to take home. Perhaps we grab a delicious mocha fria from the Balcon Café nearby or stop in at Kay’s Gringo Postre for breakfast. There always seem to be errands to run. Finally, with our bags full, we grab a taxi and for about $3.00 arrive back at our apartment ready for a few laps in the pool.

Then we go to “work.” As Layne toils diligently at his computer writing his first novel, I often start work on my column for http://TheCostaRicaNews.com, mentioned in my last post here. It has encouraged me to research retirement issues and offers the chance to pass that information on to others who might benefit from relocating here. Since I try to keep my skills up as a travel writer, Costa Rica offers abundant choices for colorful and interesting story ideas. Then when time allows, I write a post for this blog.

Here in Atenas, a relatively small town, I have taken classes in yoga, Zumba, Pilates and Latin dance. In addition, there are at least two well-equipped gyms, training in Tae Bo, Tai Chi and karate, plus art classes and, of course, several Spanish language schools are located here. We have art shows, used book sales, photo exhibitions, live music events and karaoke. In San Jose and Alajuela are even more of these kinds of activities, including live theater, hot nightlife and modern shopping malls. Head for any of the stunning beaches for surfing, beach-combing or deep-sea fishing. Rather than being bored, it often seems there are not enough hours in the day.

Volunteer opportunities abound in Costa Rica, from helping in local schools with English classes to working with animal spay and neuter shelters. Volunteer organizations focus on reforestation, rain forest preservation, turtle conservation, environmental integrity, organic farming techniques and dozens of other valuable programs. I even spent a few weeks as a volunteer dance instructor, working with young girls in ballet class. What fun that was! Anyone with some special skill or activity that they are willing to share is appreciated here and volunteering can be an extremely satisfying and enjoyable way to spend some time.

The Pura Vida lifestyle is a laid-back one; no one hurries much -- that is, until they get behind the wheel of a car! Tico drivers are notorious speeders and reckless passers, and traffic laws are not uniformly enforced. Still, other than in the metropolis of San Jose or other large cities, most people enjoy a slower pace of life, a fact that accounts in part for the contentment quotient of Ticos. According to Wikipedia’s “Happy Planet Index” for 2009, Costa Rica ranked #1 out of 143 countries. In survey after survey, this country has scored at the highest levels of having a happy population. No wonder Layne and I love it here and believe me, we are anything but bored!

Lusty Iguana Love!

The old saying “Time flies when you’re having fun” sure seems to fit our lives here. Or at least that’s the excuse I’ll give for my limited posts of late. The days seem to whiz by, full of big and little adventures. Take this morning’s walk, for instance. As we strolled along a side street of modest Tico houses, just ahead of us I saw a large crested iguana apparently basking in the sunlight on a concrete driveway. We had stopped so I could snap a photo when I noticed another smaller iguana in the culvert beside the driveway looking up at him. Quietly we moved to the other side of the street so as not to disturb them. As we stood watching, we noticed the big guy exhibiting unusual behavior: bobbing his head and seeming to preen himself. Suddenly we got it! It was “iguana love” in action. His movements were clearly directed at his lady friend below, who eyed him adoringly, if such an emotion can be attributed to iguanas. I started to take a video of their activities but a Tico on a bicycle rode by and scared them into the gutter beneath the drive.

 

Another reason I’ve been blogging less is that much of my writing time and energy has been devoted to a weekly column on retirement in Costa Rica which I started doing for an English-language website, http://TheCostaRicaNews.com. Although unpaid, the project does provide me with motivation to research some of the issues facing expats who are considering relocating here. In addition, I am compiling information for seminars Layne and I hope to offer next summer when we are in the United States. At least we plan to do a few “pilot project” versions of workshops on “Retiring in Costa Rica on Social Security,” which, of course, is what we ourselves have done. If you or someone you know might be interested in coming to a seminar, drop me an email and we’ll notify you of the schedule when we figure it out. You can find my email at the top of this blog page.

One of my recent columns in The Costa Rica News was on the numerous micro-climates in Costa Rica. We feel like Atenas has just about the perfect one for us -- warm enough to welcome a swim or to sunbathe but breezy enough to be refreshing. If we get out early for our walks, the air is invigorating and pleasant and the evenings cool down so that I often need a light jacket if we stargaze from the front patio. But just up the mountain from us are several other towns with sizeable expat communities. Grecia, Sarchi, Naranjo and San Ramon are larger cities that are only a thirty-minute to an hour drive away from Atenas but all have considerably cooler climates. Some friends here in Atenas moved from San Ramon for just that reason; they found it to be much too chilly, cloudy and during the rainy season they felt utterly drowned by the heavy downpours. Even now, looking from our front yard up the hill toward these towns, there are clouds hanging over the higher elevations while here we are enjoying gorgeous blue skies.

Yesterday I had occasion to travel up the mountain to Grecia, the closest to Atenas, where a meeting of expats was being held. The U.S. Consul General Paul Birdsall was scheduled to appear to answer questions and explain what the U.S. Embassy does and what services it offers to Americans living here. Our friends Sally and Leonard were interested in attending and they have a car so off I went with them to listen and take notes for possible use in my TheCostaRicaNews.com column. It was being held at the Galeria Restaurant, a few blocks from downtown, and a place well known for fine food. Some thirty-five to forty Gringos were present, including several of us from Atenas. Although Mr. Birdsall’s prepared remarks on the structure of the Embassy, numbers of personnel, services offered and such, were somewhat dry, the discussion livened up once he opened the floor to questions. From complaints about the grammatically-challenged signage at the Embassy and questions regarding the new Costa Rican immigration law, to uncertainties about the effect of the U.S. health care reform legislation on citizens living abroad, queries about changes in the tax law and concerns about the dispute with Nicaragua over the northern border of Costa Rica, the dialogue ranged over many issues of interest to expats. We were glad we went!

On the return trip, Leonard stopped the car so I could take pictures of the gorgeous orange and yellow trees now in bloom around the countryside. We are told the orange-blossomed plants are not native to Costa Rica but they have certainly made themselves at home as we can see acres of them in bloom across our distant view.

Not only is the weather perfect here today but we are also being serenaded by some live and lively Latin music from up the hill at the pool and rancho. Our landlords are having a little party and the bongo drums and enthusiastic male voices are a delightful accompaniment to our sunny afternoon. Although I’m sure we are welcome to join them, so far we are staying down in our apartment to allow them the undisturbed use of their entertainment area. However, since Eduardo did extend the invitation this morning as he gathered limons for the fiesta, perhaps later in the afternoon we’ll grab a beer and join the festivities. Pura Vida!

How Do I Love Thee, Costa Rica? Let Me Count the Ways

After three weeks in the United States, traveling from California to Texas on sad personal duties as well as enjoyable visits with family and friends, my recent return to Costa Rica has reminded me all over again just why I love this place. Walking back down the driveway with my husband one night last week after locking the gate behind the departing taxi from the airport, I stopped and listened as the sounds of my adopted land serenaded my heart: the sweet rustle of palm fronds in a strong tropical breeze, the steady hum of a million busy insects, the occasional chirp of a bat. Holding hands, we looked up at the stars shining brightly between scattered clouds in a crystal clear sky and the silver moon smiling down on us in the balmy evening air. What a glorious land!

Today my appreciation of the sheer beauty of this country has only intensified as I awoke to sparkling sunny skies and a brisk wind dancing through the jungles around our apartment. A few clouds drift overhead, the sun is warm, birds are singing in the trees and I am grateful to be here.

Yet for all its natural splendor, what I most appreciate about Costa Rica is the people, their friendly open smiles, ready offers of help and genuine joy of life. In the United States, I was painfully aware of how reticent people were to make eye contact with a stranger or to offer a spontaneous “hello.” In contrast, as soon as I walked off the airplane, I caught the eye of a Tico worker in the jetway and immediately he and I smiled at one another and exchanged “Buenas noches” greetings. Although I had many pleasant experiences reconnecting with old friends on my journey, much of their conversations were related to the stresses of financial problems, the difficulties in finding a job, stories of cruel and thoughtless actions by professed friends or former lovers, the cost of living, the worries they face about the future. The “squeeze” they find themselves in from a bankruptcy, the loss of a good job, a home, a loved one, all combine to cast a gloomy pallor over their everyday lives.

While I was in Texas, the dreadful violence unfolded on Saturday, January 8^th, in Tucson, Arizona, in which Congresswoman Gabrielle Giffords was critically injured, and six others were killed, including a federal judge and a 9-year-old little girl. As my friends and I discussed this tragedy and the senseless loss of innocent lives, we bemoaned the negative, even hostile, political atmosphere that has consumed America in recent years. With a Masters in Political Science and many years working in progressive political causes, including a decade as a First Amendment lobbyist, I have spent much of my career devoted to having a positive influence on political affairs and policy decisions in the U.S. But as the tone of American politics devolved into that of a bully in the schoolyard or worse, I found that I had little stomach left for my life’s work. The antagonistic mood and hateful speech which colors American politics and kills all civil discourse offers another contrast with life here in Costa Rica where political campaigns seem to be more a festive, if animated, dialogue on policy than a winner-take-all struggle for power, and the historical pattern of government seems more focused on caring for the overall citizenry than accumulating wealth to individuals.

So as we pondered our approaching retirement a few years ago, it was not a difficult decision for my husband and me to consider this Central American haven. Not only is the climate appealing, the cost of living attractive and the health care top-notch, but also living among Ticos with their delightful “Pura Vida” philosophy is unmatched for discovering a life free of stress and anxiety. The opportunity to downsize our lives, to shed our load of “stuff,” to abandon the North American focus on consumerism has all been a boon. The possibilities for engaging in meaningful volunteer work, of helping to preserve and appreciate the magnificent environment and ecology here and learning a new culture and language are advantages we did not really imagine when we arrived at the decision to make our home here. But now that we are here, we can see that retirement in Costa Rica was one of the best moves we ever made!