Water and Weddings in Atenas

AyA workers in our roadway

The last week or so has been challenging here in Santa Eulalia and in other parts of Atenas as well. AyA, as the water company is known, is replacing pipe all along the main road from Atenas to Grecia and as a result, we are often without water for much of the day. Usually, it comes back on at night so things could be worse, but it has been quite inconvenient now and then. Last Friday night, for instance, when Marcial and Seidy were to join us as usual for dinner and conversation (in English and Spanish), the water was still off at 6:00 p.m. and I was in a tizzy trying to figure out how to cook our favorite fish dish, lightly browned Corvina (Sea Bass) in a Ginger-Green Onion sauce. In addition, I was suffering more than usual from a return of the eczema that plagues me now and then so finally, with apologies, I called Marcial and cancelled dinner. Predictably, the water came back on within the hour and Layne and I enjoyed the fish, albeit later than planned.

On Saturday, as we were heading out to a friend's wedding we found the AyA workers practically at our doorstep, with a trench several feet deep cut across the asphalt drive leading down to our house. 

Right across our driveway

Does this signify "good watermelon"? 

As we awaited the arrival of the bus, made late by the construction, our landlord Isaac brought out big slices of watermelon as a refreshing treat for the workers. One fellow in particular was more than happy to have his photo taken enjoying the fruit. Now that the work has passed our block on its way to Grecia, we are hopeful that the worst is over.

The wedding was a joyful celebration of love between two of our friends: our hairdresser Mariana and her Gringo beau Calvin. As expected many of our Atenas pals were there. This is because one of the first places most Gringos land when they arrive in Atenas is Kay's Gringo Postre, the meeting place/restaurant/lending library hosted by Kay and Tom Costello, expats from South Dakota who have been community leaders here for ten years or more. At Kay's you can get reliable advice on everything from the best residency attorney, to a good dentist to... yes, the best place for a haircut. That would be Mariana's. So the happy couple took their vows at her home in front of many of her clients who, like us, have come to adore this charming, vivacious Columbian woman.

The minister was obviously a good friend as well because in his homily to the couple on their matrimonial duties, he took certain liberties. Standing beneath the purple and white decorated porch, he began by saying to Calvin: "I don't know how you managed to get her, Calvin. You're a lucky man." Calvin turned to the crowd with a devilish smile and gave a thumbs-up sign, eliciting a laugh from the audience. Turning to Mariana, the minister sighed, "You could have done better, Mariana," whereupon Calvin again turned to us, this time with a shocked frown causing still more laughter. 

Calvin clowning for the crowd

Kay Costello toasts the happy couple

Mariana and Calvin cut their cake

Then there was champagne with gracious toasts, food, music and dancing and eventually they cut the beautiful cake. All in all, it was a lovely wedding and we wish them every happiness.

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570 

Big Birthdays and Baby Back Ribs

If there's one thing the Santa Eulalia Gang, aka The 10:27 Club, knows how to do, it's celebrate a birthday. And it was with festive spirits and grateful hearts that we all gathered last week to wish an enthusiastic Happy Birthday to our honorary leader and dear friend, Marcial Artavia, aka The Sausage King, aka Costa Rica Dundee. As his 62nd birthday approached, his adorable wife Seidy took charge. Keeping it simple, she decided on typical Tico fare of rice, red beans, yucca, home-baked bread, chicken simmered in a spicy sauce and a beautiful salad adorned with a pink plumeria from her garden. Eroca provided one of her now-famous desserts, Pineapple Upside-down Cake. 

Feast for a King

The rest of us contributed a few appetizers, plenty of beer and wine and Marcial's favorite indulgence, J&B scotch whiskey. It was a feast fit for ... well, a Sausage King! With his family all there, including his mom Haydee who did the honors of blowing out the single symbolic candle, and the entire Santa Eulalia gang gathered around him, it was sure to be a fun evening for Marcial as indeed it was.

Eroca, Marc, Sue, Marcial, Seidy & Stephen (Layne's hand in foreground)

Plumeria from the yard

Eroca presents the birthday cake

A birthday hug from Mom...

A birthday kiss from Seidy

Since most of the female members of the Santa Eulalia Gang were in attendance (all but Carmen), the event gave us a chance to take a photo together wearing the stunning earrings that Marcial and Seidy's oldest son Felipe makes. They feature a Dream-catcher design in your choice of colors and use coconut shell as a frame. Felipe is making these to sell in an effort to earn tuition money for college. 

Showing off our earrings

The "official" Santa Eulalia Gang earrings

Felipe hopes to study architecture at a private school here in Costa Rica but the cost to register is pretty steep. So he is offering these beautiful earrings at only 5000 colones a pair, or about $10, as a way to save enough for tuition. If you want to wear the official Santa Eulalia Gang earrings and help this young man get into college, send me an email at mailto:pksunlove@gmail.com and I'll put you in touch with Felipe.

As usual the rest of our week and weekend was busy with our regular trips to the gym, hikes around the neighborhood and the community fiesta that is every Friday's feria. We always see dozens of people we know there. On Friday night Chris and Sue and Marcial and Seidy came to our house to enjoy some of Chris' amazing North Carolina barbequed baby back ribs. Oh, wow, were they juicy, falling-off-the-bone delicious! Slow-cooked in the oven for a few hours then slathered in Chris' homemade sauce for a final browning on the charcoal grill, they were some of the best I've ever had. (Unfortunately, we were so busy cooking and eating, we forgot to take photos.) Along with his cole slaw and my baked beans and potato salad, we were completely satiated by the end of the evening. No wonder Layne and I have trouble losing weight, despite all our exercise. But with food this good, who can resist? Certainly not me! Pura Vida!

P.S. Thanks to my wonderful loyal readers, this blog is about to hit the 50,000 all-time page views mark! Thank you so much for your continued readership, support and encouragement.  

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570 

  

Paddle-boarding With Crocodiles on the River Baru

On the long, hot bus ride back from Dominical last Friday, I felt a little like Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz, tapping her heels together, closing her eyes and chanting: "There's no place like home. There's no place like home." Although I love the beach life at this southern zone surfer's paradise, the climate was too hot for comfort this trip. As we left Dominical in our non-air conditioned (but otherwise comfortable) bus, the digital display above the front window said 38 ºC or about 100 ºF. Holy Hotcakes! That's West Texas weather! By the time we reached Atenas four hours later and two thousand feet higher in elevation, the temperature had dropped to 27 ºC or 80 ºF. No wonder Atenas is touted as having "the best climate in the world!"

 

Villas Rio Mar gardens

Dominical continues to lure us, nevertheless, because of its laid-back, low-key lifestyle and of course, our favorite hotel, Villas Rio Mar, where we enjoy comfort, good service and great food. The two sea bass dinners I had - one with garlic sauce, the other in almond sauce - were just outstanding.

Without a car for most of our trip (we rented one for the last day), Layne and I got in a short hike each day as we walked from the hotel to the beach area and back. Strolling along the beachfront road is a feast for the eyes, as you pass one vender stall after another filled with colorful beach towels, sundresses, shorts, tee shirts, bikinis, jewelry and handcrafts. We stopped at one lady's booth for a glass of delicious freshly squeezed orange juice. As you can see from her smile, Ticos are not shy about photographs.

On our trek back to the hotel, we looked out at the River Baru and noticed three people standing up paddling along on surfboards, apparently unconcerned about the signs warning of crocodiles in the river. Let's just hope they kept their balance as a dip in those waters might invite some unwelcome company. 

On the same hike Layne glanced across the river to the jungle beyond and suddenly stopped in amazement. Clearly visible through the trees was a very large airplane. How it got there we have no idea, although we later learned that it serves as a restaurant and sits alongside the road to San Isidro de General, so perhaps they managed to tow it into place. But the sight sure surprised us.

 The third and last night of our trip we joined dozens of locals on the beach to watch the sunset and meditate on the beauty and awesome power of the ocean. Layne and I had abundant opportunities to experience that power in our daily beachside trips, watching fearless surfers conquer 8- to 10-foot waves that then crashed mightily into us as we jumped breakers in knee-deep water. With the strong rip tides and undertow at Dominical, one must have great respect for the ocean and never turn your back on the rolling surf. A couple of big ones washed over us and had us scrambling to regain our footing before the next one hit.

As the sun's rays disappeared behind distant clouds, Layne and I walked over to our other favorite restaurant, Tortilla Flats, for dinner. While we were enjoying our meal, a deaf mute young Tico approached our table with a card explaining that he could make a number of different items using a palm frond. Our waiter confirmed that he did very good work and so we chose a basket. One can never have too many baskets, right? 

Watching the young fellow at work was amazing as he quickly but carefully wove the long green leaves into a lovely container. He only charged 3000 colones or about $6 but I gave him 5000 and considered it a bargain at that. 

As it dries, it will harden

Our waiter confided to me that the man gets depressed at times because of his disability, but he has been encouraged by his success in visiting local restaurants and crafting handmade artwork on the spot. We wish him well.

So it was good to be back in Atenas after our fun excursion to the beach. We fantasize renting a beach cottage in Dominicalito, an even smaller village just south of Dominical, and sharing our time between Atenas with its perfect climate and great friends and the Dominical area with its seductive beach ambiance. Pura Vida!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570 

  

A Costa Rica Eco-Hike or Eco Tico

Yesterday was a beautiful day for a hike: blue skies with spongy white clouds scattered overhead and a light refreshing breeze. But instead of taking off for hidden trails and picturesque rivers, the Santa Eulalia Gang, aka The 10:27 Club, donned gloves, grabbed big plastic bags and headed down the main road picking up rubbish. Our goal was to clean the ditches and gutters of detritus and in the process hopefully inspire our neighbors to be more aware of where they toss their trash.

As proud residents of such a naturally beautiful country, Ticos are rather casual about throwing things on the ground. It seems as though they think, "out of sight, out of mind," not realizing or choosing to ignore the fact that all those plastic bags, candy wrappers, cardboard boxes, soda bottles, computer cases and other garbage don't magically disappear. Alas, when the rainy season arrives, it all gets pushed down the ditches and into the rivers and ultimately into the ocean, where trash from around the world now forms a huge toxic plastic "island" known as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. Estimates on its size range from twice the size of Hawaii to twice the size of the state of Texas. As it leaves countries on the Pacific Rim -- from Japan and the Philippines in the east and from all along the West Coast of the United States -- debris is caught up in the North Pacific Gyre, a clockwise movement of four prevailing currents in the northern part of the Pacific Ocean, where it slowly breaks down into even smaller polymers that provide a deadly soup for the ocean life there. Since the Gyre comprises the largest ecosystem on Earth, some 20 million square kilometers, we're talking some serious ecological damage.

So the Santa Eulalia "Drinking Club with a Hiking Problem" decided to take matters - and trash - into our own hands, literally. We knew we couldn't save the world but we might be able to save our little pristine corner here in Costa Rica. A little disorganized in the beginning (as we are wont to be), the gang soon developed a system: Stephen was Plastic Man, Layne and Carmen were talking Trash, Sue carried the Aluminum and Glass bag and I was in charge of Paper goods. Marcial, Bonnie and Chris had primary pick-up duties, delivering the goods to the appropriate bag handlers and occasionally taking on bag-handling duties as well.

It was slow going; we were amazed at just how much "stuff" there was to pick up, especially in front of and across the street from the local high school where the kids convene between classes to munch on candy and sodas and often drop the packaging where they sit. Along one stretch of concrete gutter we discovered a sludge-like liquid in the bottom in which plastics and other debris were immersed. We couldn't face picking that up as the sludge smelled of sewage so Stephen dragged most of it out with a stick so at least it could dry - and perhaps send a message to the litterers as well as the household with the poor septic system.

As the road leveled out near Bonnie and Stephen's house, they decided to call it quits for the day; it was hard work! The rest of us had every intention of going on but once we took a break for a few bites of delicious mango that Marcial had found, we concluded we had done enough for one day and it was time to relax. Our neighbor Juan had donated the bags and was coming in his pickup truck to take them for appropriate recycling but when he arrived with a bottle of tequila, limons and salt in hand, it was time for a Tailgate Party, Tico style!

Now that's a Tailgate Party!

This puppy fell in love with Sue - and she with it!

Our plan for the next clean-up hike is to bring along a sign as a means of public education: Let's Keep Santa Eulalia Clean! ¡Vamos a mantener Santa Eulalia limpio!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570

  

Costa Rica: Efficiency Experts Apply Here

Big news here in Costa Rica: The city of San Jose is putting up street signs! If you've never had to find a location based solely on "turn left at the red barn"-type of directions, you may not fully grasp the significance of this step. It's not that the streets have no names, it's just that nobody knows what they are. Addresses here are given in 100-meter segments, meant to indicate a city block but it's a loose measure for sure, and distances are counted from landmarks. For instance, our home address is "200 meters east of the Catholic Church, on the left side." But that doesn't get you to our house. What's on the "left side" is a street, which, unless you know otherwise, looks like a driveway, especially since the surface quickly disappears from view in a steep incline that hides the houses below. So there's that. But then, said street has two houses on it; ours happens to be the last one on the left. Try telling that to a taxi driver - in Spanish! So it's a big deal to be getting street signs. First thing you know we may even have numbers on buildings!

The other recent big news for Layne and me was that we successfully renewed our cedulas, the plastic identification card that says you are in the country legally. It's amazing to us that two years have flown by since we got residency here, but it's true. So with our friend Carmen as hired translator, we started the process a few weeks ago. I had already called our residency attorney to learn a little about the process. She explained the documentation we would need, along with a fee of $129 in colones, and she gave me a phone number to set up an appointment. Oddly to us, this transaction would be handled by the Banco de Costa Rica (BCR), a banking institution instead of immigration. Perhaps that just reflects the key point for the Costa Rican government: get the money.

My Cedula

Requirements for pensionado or retiree residency in Costa Rica include transferring $1000 per month into colones and maintaining a paid-up membership in the Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social, better known as just the CAJA, the country's universal health care system. So our first step was for Carmen to call BCR to make the appointment and learn what we should bring. This included a letter from our bank proving we had transferred the required amount of money each month, copies of our cedulas, copies of our CAJA receipt and, of course, those fees.

Next we met Carmen at our bank to get the letter, which proved to be an amusing example of Tico bureaucratic inefficiency. Layne and I had printouts of all the deposit confirmations, which included dates and dollar amounts from our online transfers. When the clerk looked at our paperwork, however, she told Carmen she was unsure whether they were acceptable. Since the banks "say" they only keep records going back six months, we had a moment of panic. If they didn't have the records and wouldn't accept ours, what would we do? Fortunately, after checking with her supervisor, she said our copies were fine. Then she proceeded to handwrite each month's date and dollar amount on a blank sheet of paper to check against the records in her computer. Never mind that the same information was right in front of her on those printouts. But finally, after a mind-bogglingly slow process, she typed up our letter and sent us on our way. Pura Vida!

For the next couple of weeks, Layne and I stressed over whether we had everything we needed: copies of cedulas, copies of CAJA receipt, copies of the bank letter, proof of Social Security income from the US Embassy, a form showing his check is direct deposited here, a letter showing I am his dependent (in Costa Rica, I'm a married woman so dependent on mi esposo) and of course, the money. We had it all organized in separate folders, carefully paper-clipped together.

On the day of our appointment, we had everything with us as we bused with Carmen to the

No photos allowed in BCR, but here's the food service at Int'l Mall

International Mall in Alajuela where the BCR was located. At BCR, however, the procedure was anti-climactic. After a long wait, (Pura Vida again), it was finally my turn. The unsmiling clerk entered in her computer my street address (see above re addresses), asked for my CAJA receipt and the $129, of course. That was it. No proof of income; no letter from the bank; no issue of dependency. She took my picture and my fingerprint - same finger, four times. Go figure. Then in a classic case of ineptitude, she lost all of the data she had entered, had to restart her computer and go through it all again. Hey, lady -- hit Save next time!

For Layne the process took less than ten minutes. In neither case did she ask for proof of income or the letter from our bank, even though that is one of the most stringent requirements. All we could do was shake our heads in amusement and count our lucky stars that our cedulas will be renewed. For how long? we asked the clerk. She didn't know. And neither will we until we receive our new cards. Sigh. Pura Vida indeed.

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570

Eat, Drink & Be Merry...

... For tomorrow, It's Eat, Drink & Be Merry Again!

Iguana Bread

Happy St. Paddy's Day to all, with or without green beer on your menu. Our day started with a not-so-Irish brunch at the home of our friends Jan and Tom, bakers of some of the finest bread in all of Costa Rica. Most every week at the feria we pick up a loaf of Tom's whole wheat French or Layne's favorite Iguana Bread, so named not because it includes iguana in its ingredients (thank goodness!) but for the seed-encrusted and carved brown top reminiscent of that reptile's crested and craggy back.

St. Paddy's Day Brunch 

Another of Tom's fabulous recipes is Almond Sticky Buns. Oh, wow! They are beyond decadent. And happily today they were on our brunch menu, but sliced and grilled, of all things. Along with papaya, mango and blueberry fruit salad, perfect home fried potatoes, breakfast burritos with guacamole, salsa and natilla (sour cream), coffee and fresh juice, it was a banquet fit for royalty. 

The view toward Grecia... looks chilly to me!

Enjoying the feast along with us was a couple from Grecia, which is up the mountain we can see from our house. With a home at the 4200' level, Dave and Marsha enjoy the cooler weather found at that elevation. It's too chilly for me but they come from Michigan so it probably feels downright tropical up there to them.

Today was the third installment of what has been another party-filled weekend. On Friday we feted our dear friends Sally and Leonard who have decided to head back to the States soon to embark on their next adventure: traveling in a new hotrod RV (complete with a fireplace!) and volunteering as hosts at national parks around the country. So along with Marcial and Seidy, who spend most every Friday evening with us, we enjoyed lively conversation, a few bottles of wine and a nice sautéed veggie dish with browned butter and Parmesan cheese over angel hair pasta. We will certainly miss Sally and Leonard who have been buenos amigos but we wish them well as they take off for a new life and exciting times ahead.

Yesterday was party time around the pool at Bonnie and Stephen's home in honor of Stephen's childhood friend Seth who just arrived from San Francisco for a visit. Hail, hail, the Santa Eulalia gang was all there: Marcial and Seidy and two of their sons, Felipe and Daniel (only David, who works on weekends, was missing), their friend Johan, Chris and Sue, Marc and Eroca, me and Layne and the newest members of our posse, Carmen and Roberto. Beginning with Carmen's excellent mango ceviche, huge fruit salad and her now-famous salsa verde, the food just kept coming: slow-cooked beans and pork loin, potato/bean salad, sweet coconut couscous salad and finally Chris' incredible stuffed chicken. Naturally, Eroca brought one of her outrageous desserts, this time a banana-chocolate chip cake that was muy rico. The sunny weather was perfect and Sue even improvised a net for volleyball, giving some of the group a chance to splash each other like kids at camp. Quite a day!

Volleyball in the pool

What a cake!

It hasn't been all food and parties this week, however, as we did get in a rather energetic hike last weekend as well. Following the same route we took a few weeks back along Calle Vanilla, we came again to the residence where on our previous visit the Tico family had just killed a large snake that was guilty of poaching their chickens. Our indefatigable guide Marcial had pre-hiked our road the day before and made arrangements with the sweet Tica there to have some cool drinks ready for us when we arrived. Her homemade lemonade hit the spot for us tired hikers and the throng of orchids in bloom was a feast for the eyes. (Click on these photos to enlarge; they are worth a closer look!)

Hikers Layne and Stephen take a break

Most of these are the spectacular Guaria Morada, the national flower of Costa Rica, whose rich purple tones and shimmering petals bloom from January through April. The yard was absolutely filled with their blossoms along with other varieties, all hugging the trees and spilling out from every corner. As we learned from Marcial, the elderly lady had been born in this house and, she said, she expected to be there when she "goes home to God."

Gabriel and Alu 

Although fortunately not heading home to God just yet, last Monday night we did have to say goodbye to Marcial's son Gabriel and his family as they prepared to head back to their home in Germany. Marcial's backyard, where the fire pit makes an inviting setting for good friends to gather, was the scene for our farewell get-together. After five months here in Costa Rica, I know they found it hard to face a return to work and the obligations of "normal" life. As a fitting finale to our fiesta, Gabriel and Alu serenaded the group with German and Spanish songs, a nostalgic ending to their visit and an evening we will all long remember with pleasure. Bon voyage, amigos, y regresan muy pronto!

Check out Layne's book "Moral Turpitude," available for only $2.99 at Smashwords.com. High adventure with corporate intrigue, danger and romance; from the exotic jungles of Borneo and Costa Rica to the erotic jungles of San Francisco. Sample or purchase at --https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/159570